8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES – 8.16 - PRECAUTIONS TO FARMERS REGARDING USE OF PLANT EXTRACTS

  

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES – 8.16 - PRECAUTIONS TO FARMERS REGARDING USE OF PLANT EXTRACTS

 

Despite being “natural” and widely used in agricultural systems, some botanicals may be dangerous for humans and they can be very toxic to natural enemies. Nicotine for example, derived from the tobacco plant, is one of the most toxic organic poisons for humans and other warm-blooded animals. Pyrethrins are not poisonous for humans and warm-blooded animals. However, human allergic reactions are common. It can cause rash and breathing the dust can cause headaches and sickness. 

-     Before a new botanical pesticide is applied in a large scale, its effect on the ecosystem should be tested in a small field experiment. Do not just use botanical pesticides as a default option! First understand the ecosystem and how botanicals influence it!

-     Do not have direct skin contact with the crude extract during the process of preparation and application. 

-     Contact with plant extracts should be avoided in the eyes. 

-     Make sure that you place the plant extract out of reach of children during storage.   

-     Wear protective clothing (eyes, mouth, nose and skin) while applying the extract.  –

-     Wash your hands after handling the plant extract.

Besides extractions of plants, there are some other natural pesticides, which are allowed in organic farming. Although some of these products have limited selectivity and are not fully biodegradable, there are situations, when their use is justified. However, in most cases, the desired effect is best reached in combination with preventive crop protection methods. Some examples are:

•       Soft soap solutions: against aphids and other sucking insects.

•       Light mineral oil: against various insect pests (harms natural enemies!).

•       Sulphur: against spider mites (harms natural enemies!). The acaricidal effect of sulphur is best at temperatures above 12° C. However, sulphur has the potential to cause plant injury in dry hot weather (above 32° C). It’s also incompatible with other pesticides. Sulphur should not be used together or after treatments with oil to avoid phytotoxicity.

•       Plant ashes: wood ashes from fireplaces can be efficient against ants, leaf miners, stem borers, termites and potato moths. Ash should be dusted directly on pest colonies and infested plant parts. The ash will dehydrate the soft bodied pests. Wood ashes are often used when storing grains to deter storage pests such as weevils. In addition, ashes are used against soil borne diseases.

•        

 

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

8 1 DAWA ZA ASILI – 8.16 - TAHADHARI KWA WAKULIMA KUHUSU MATUMIZI YA DONDOO ZA MIMEA.

 

Licha ya kuwa "asili" na kutumika sana katika mifumo ya kilimo, baadhi ya mimea inaweza kuwa hatari kwa wanadamu na inaweza kuwa sumu sana kwa maadui wa asili. Nikotini kwa mfano, inayotokana na mmea wa tumbaku, ni mojawapo ya sumu ya kikaboni yenye sumu kwa wanadamu na wanyama wengine wenye damu joto. Pyrethrins sio sumu kwa wanadamu na wanyama wenye damu ya joto. Hata hivyo, athari za mzio wa binadamu ni za kawaida. Inaweza kusababisha upele na kupumua vumbi kunaweza kusababisha maumivu ya kichwa na ugonjwa.

- Kabla ya dawa mpya ya mimea kutumiwa kwa kiwango kikubwa, athari yake kwenye mfumo ikolojia inapaswa kujaribiwa katika jaribio dogo la shamba. Usitumie tu viuatilifu vya mimea kama chaguo-msingi! Kwanza elewa mfumo ikolojia na jinsi mimea inavyoathiri!

- Usiguse ngozi moja kwa moja na dondoo ghafi wakati wa mchakato wa utayarishaji na uwekaji.

- Kuwasiliana na dondoo za mimea kunapaswa kuepukwa machoni.

- Hakikisha kwamba unaweka dondoo la mmea mahali pasipoweza kufikiwa na watoto wakati wa kuhifadhi.

- Vaa nguo za kujikinga (macho, mdomo, pua na ngozi) unapopaka dondoo. -

- Nawa mikono yako baada ya kushika dondoo la mmea.

Kando na uchimbaji wa mimea, kuna dawa zingine za asili zinazoruhusiwa katika kilimo hai. Ingawa baadhi ya bidhaa hizi zina uwezo mdogo wa kuchagua na haziwezi kuharibika kikamilifu, kuna hali wakati matumizi yao yanahesabiwa haki. Hata hivyo, katika hali nyingi, athari inayotaka hupatikana vyema pamoja na mbinu za kuzuia mazao. Baadhi ya mifano ni:

• Suluhisho la sabuni laini: dhidi ya vidukari na wadudu wengine wanaonyonya.

• Mafuta ya madini ya mwanga: dhidi ya wadudu mbalimbali wadudu (hudhuru maadui wa asili!).

• Sulphur: dhidi ya sarafu za buibui (hudhuru maadui wa asili!). Athari ya acaricidal ya sulfuri ni bora kwa joto la zaidi ya 12 ° C. Hata hivyo, sulfuri ina uwezo wa kusababisha uharibifu wa mmea katika hali ya hewa kavu ya joto (zaidi ya 32 ° C). Pia haiendani na dawa zingine za wadudu. Sulfuri haipaswi kutumiwa pamoja au baada ya matibabu na mafuta ili kuepuka phytotoxicity.

• Majivu ya mimea: majivu ya kuni kutoka mahali pa moto yanaweza kuwa bora dhidi ya mchwa, wachimbaji wa majani, vipekecha shina, mchwa na nondo za viazi. Majivu yanapaswa kumwagika moja kwa moja kwenye makundi ya wadudu na sehemu za mimea zilizoathirika. Majivu yatapunguza maji kwa wadudu wenye miili laini. Majivu ya kuni mara nyingi hutumika wakati wa kuhifadhi nafaka ili kuzuia wadudu waharibifu kama vile wadudu waharibifu. Aidha, majivu hutumiwa dhidi ya magonjwa yanayotokana na udongo.

 

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES - 8.18 - CHILLI - POWDER SPRAYS AS INSECTICIDE

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES - 8.18 - CHILLI - POWDER SPRAYS AS INSECTICIDE

Homemade chili powder sprays can protect plants against insects and other pests that may be eating the garden. Chili powder spray won't kill all insects, but the spray will repel most insects and other pests that eat garden plants. It should not be sprayed directly on fruits, vegetables or herbs meant for the table as they could end up tasting like chili powder. Limit the spray to nonedible leaves.

REPELLANT

Insects do not like plants with a strong odour or taste. The capsaicin that gives chili powder its hot flavour is distasteful to insects. Spraying plants or the soil around the plants with chili powder spray can keep insects from taking a taste. Because chili powder can be irritating to skin, wearing gloves while working with spray is recommended. Precautions need to be taken to keep the spray from getting into the eyes or on exposed skin as well, especially during windy weather.

CHILI

For a basic chili pepper spray, add 1½ teaspoons of chili powder to 1 quart of water. Add two drops of liquid dish soap to help the spray adhere to surfaces. Like human skin, some plants can be irritated or burned by chili powder sprays, so always spray one or two leaves as a test. Leave the spray on the test leaves for several days to watch for a reaction. If the sprayed leaves are wilted, yellow or look burned, do not spray the plant with chili spray. The spray can be applied to the soil around sensitive plants and still be effective against many insects and garden pests.

GARLIC

To increase the potency of chili powder spray, garlic can be added. Chop an entire head of garlic and add to 1 quart of hot water, let steep for 24 hours. Strain the mixture through cheesecloth to remove the garlic pulp. Add 1 teaspoon of chili powder and two drops of liquid dish soap. Garlic can repel beneficial insects like ladybugs as well as pests, so this spray should not be used near areas where beneficial insects live.

ONION

Adding onion can also boost chili powder spray. Finely chop or puree a small onion and steep in water for an hour. Strain the liquid through cheesecloth to remove the onion pulp. Add 1 teaspoon of chili powder and half a teaspoon of liquid dish detergent. For persistent pests or a bad infestation, both garlic and onion can be added to the chili powder spray.

 

 

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

8 1 DAWA ASILI- 8.18 - CHILLI - PODA INAPULIA KAMA DAWA

Vinyunyuzi vya poda ya pilipili vilivyotengenezwa nyumbani vinaweza kulinda mimea dhidi ya wadudu na wadudu wengine ambao wanaweza kuwa wanakula bustani. Kunyunyizia poda ya pilipili haitaua wadudu wote, lakini dawa hiyo itafukuza wadudu wengi na wadudu wengine wanaokula mimea ya bustani. Haipaswi kunyunyiziwa moja kwa moja kwenye matunda, mboga mboga au mimea iliyokusudiwa kwa meza kwani inaweza kuishia kuonja kama unga wa pilipili. Punguza dawa kwa majani yasiyoweza kuliwa.

KIZUIZI

Wadudu hawapendi mimea yenye harufu kali au ladha. Kapsaisini inayotoa poda ya pilipili ladha yake ya moto haichukizi wadudu. Kunyunyizia mimea au udongo unaozunguka mimea kwa kutumia poda ya pilipili kunaweza kuzuia wadudu kuonja. Kwa sababu poda ya pilipili inaweza kuwasha ngozi, kuvaa glavu wakati wa kufanya kazi na dawa kunapendekezwa. Tahadhari zinapaswa kuchukuliwa ili kuzuia dawa isiingie machoni au kwenye ngozi iliyo wazi pia, haswa wakati wa hali ya hewa ya upepo.

CHILI

Kwa dawa ya msingi ya pilipili, ongeza kijiko 1½ cha poda ya pilipili kwa lita 1 ya maji. Ongeza matone mawili ya sabuni ya kioevu ili kusaidia dawa kuambatana na nyuso. Kama ngozi ya binadamu, baadhi ya mimea inaweza kuwashwa au kuchomwa na dawa ya kupuliza pilipili, kwa hivyo nyunyiza majani moja au mawili kila wakati kama mtihani. Acha dawa kwenye majani ya mtihani kwa siku kadhaa ili kuangalia majibu. Ikiwa majani yaliyonyunyiziwa yamenyauka, ya manjano au yanaonekana kuchomwa, usinyunyize mmea na pilipili. Dawa inaweza kutumika kwenye udongo karibu na mimea nyeti na bado kuwa na ufanisi dhidi ya wadudu wengi na wadudu wa bustani.

KITUNGUU SAUMU

Ili kuongeza nguvu ya dawa ya pilipili, vitunguu vinaweza kuongezwa. Kata kichwa kizima cha vitunguu na uongeze kwa lita 1 ya maji ya moto, acha iwe mwinuko kwa masaa 24. Chuja mchanganyiko kupitia cheesecloth ili kuondoa massa ya vitunguu. Ongeza kijiko 1 cha poda ya pilipili na matone mawili ya sabuni ya kioevu. Kitunguu saumu kinaweza kufukuza wadudu wenye manufaa kama vile kunguni na wadudu, kwa hivyo dawa hii isitumike karibu na maeneo ambayo wadudu wenye manufaa huishi.

KITUNGUU

Kuongeza vitunguu pia kunaweza kuongeza dawa ya pilipili. Kata vitunguu laini au suuza na uimimine ndani ya maji kwa saa moja. Chuja kioevu kupitia cheesecloth ili kuondoa massa ya vitunguu. Ongeza kijiko 1 cha poda ya pilipili na kijiko cha nusu cha sabuni ya kioevu ya sahani. Kwa wadudu wanaoendelea au kushambuliwa vibaya, vitunguu saumu na vitunguu vinaweza kuongezwa kwenye dawa ya poda ya pilipili.

  

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES -8.19 - NATURAL WAYS TO GET RID OF ANTS

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES -8.19 - NATURAL WAYS TO GET RID OF ANTS

 

Ants are helpful in some respects, but there are times when they end up causing damage to your Garden. Here are a few non-toxic methods to help you. If you have used other methods that worked, please let us know.

 

USE CITRUS PEELINGS

Collect citrus peelings (orange, lemon, etc.), ground them up and mix with water. Spray the liquid concoction over the ant mound. This method is an effective natural remedy for getting rid of carpenter ants and other garden ants. If you don't want to make this, you can buy Orange Guard. It is a liquid spray that includes only natural ingredients (the main ingredient is orange peel extract, otherwise known as d-Limonene). This product is not harmful to garden soil or surrounding environment and is EPA-registered. Since all ingredients are food grade, it also won’t damage your crops.

 

USE BOILING WATER

If you can see the anthills, pouring boiling water over them several days in a row is a great way to reduce or eliminate an ant colony. You should use at least 3 gallons of boiling water for each ant mound.

 

USE BORAX MIXTURE

Spraying a mixture containing borax is effective to kill garden ants. For this purpose, combine equal amounts of borax and sugar and spray the mixture randomly in the garden or wherever you notice garden ants. Sugar attracts the ants to feed on the mixture and the borax kills the ants. By following this method, you will be successful in getting rid of sugar ants. I also heard recently that a Family had used a mixture of peanut butter, honey and borax to get rid of some colonies. They rolled mixture into small balls and left by the nest.

 

SPRINKLE GRITS

Grits or hot cereals are a good choice for getting rid of ants in the yard and garden. Sprinkle it in the garden, especially in the ant mounds and hills. After ants feed on the grits, they expand in their stomach and kill them.

 

CINNAMON

While not the cheapest method, sprinkling ground cinnamon along the perimeter of your garden (or any surface area, for that matter) will repel ants, but not kill them. Create a thick line that will force ants to climb over and watch both red and black ants refuse to do so. Cinnamon will also reduce the number of ants in your compost pile if they are bothersome.

 

Grow Mint Herb

Ants hate any type of strong odour. The pungent aromatic scent of mint leaves acts as natural pesticide for the ants. So, do not delay in planting mint in your garden so as to get rid of the troublesome ants. The permanent solution for garden ants is to grow and maintain mint plants throughout the year.

 

 

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

8 1 DAWA ASILI -8.19 - NJIA ASILI ZA KUONDOA Mchwa.

 

Mchwa husaidia katika mambo fulani, lakini kuna wakati huishia kusababisha uharibifu kwenye bustani yako. Hapa kuna mbinu chache zisizo na sumu za kukusaidia. Ikiwa umetumia njia zingine zilizofanya kazi, tafadhali tujulishe.

 

TUMIA MICHUZI YA MCHANGANYIKO

Kusanya maganda ya machungwa (machungwa, limao, nk), yasaga na kuchanganya na maji. Nyunyiza mchanganyiko wa kioevu juu ya kilima cha mchwa. Njia hii ni suluhisho bora la asili la kuondoa mchwa wa seremala na mchwa wengine wa bustani. Ikiwa hutaki kufanya hivi, unaweza kununua Orange Guard. Ni dawa ya kioevu inayojumuisha viungo vya asili tu (kiungo kikuu ni dondoo la peel ya machungwa, inayojulikana kama d-Limonene). Bidhaa hii haina madhara kwa udongo wa bustani au mazingira jirani na imesajiliwa EPA. Kwa kuwa viungo vyote ni vya daraja la chakula, pia haitaharibu mazao yako.

 

TUMIA MAJI YA KUCHEMSHA

Ikiwa unaweza kuona vichuguu, kumwaga maji ya moto juu yao kwa siku kadhaa mfululizo ni njia nzuri ya kupunguza au kuondoa safu ya mchwa. Unapaswa kutumia angalau galoni 3 za maji ya moto kwa kila kilima cha chungu.

 

TUMIA MCHANGANYIKO WA BORAX

Kunyunyizia mchanganyiko ulio na borax ni bora kuua mchwa wa bustani. Kwa kusudi hili, changanya viwango sawa vya borax na sukari na nyunyiza mchanganyiko nasibu kwenye bustani au popote unapoona mchwa wa bustani. Sukari huwavutia mchwa kula mchanganyiko huo na borax huua mchwa. Kwa kufuata njia hii, utakuwa na mafanikio katika kuondokana na mchwa wa sukari. Pia nilisikia hivi majuzi kwamba Familia moja ilikuwa imetumia mchanganyiko wa siagi ya karanga, asali na borax ili kuondoa koloni. Walivingirisha mchanganyiko ndani ya mipira midogo na kushoto na kiota.

 

NYUNYIZIA GRITI

Grits au nafaka za moto ni chaguo nzuri kwa kuondokana na mchwa kwenye yadi na bustani. Nyunyiza kwenye bustani, haswa kwenye vilima vya mchwa na vilima. Baada ya mchwa kulisha grits, hupanua ndani ya tumbo lao na kuwaua.

 

MDALASINI

Ingawa sio njia ya bei rahisi zaidi, kunyunyiza mdalasini ya ardhi kwenye eneo la bustani yako (au eneo lolote la uso, kwa jambo hilo) kutawafukuza mchwa, lakini sio kuwaua. Unda mstari mnene ambao utalazimisha mchwa kupanda juu na kutazama mchwa mwekundu na mweusi akikataa kufanya hivyo. Mdalasini pia itapunguza idadi ya mchwa kwenye rundo la mboji yako ikiwa wanasumbua.

 

Kukua Mint Herb

Mchwa huchukia aina yoyote ya harufu kali. Harufu yenye harufu nzuri ya majani ya mint hufanya kazi kama dawa ya asili kwa mchwa. Kwa hivyo, usichelewesha kupanda mint kwenye bustani yako ili kuondoa mchwa wenye shida. Suluhisho la kudumu kwa mchwa wa bustani ni kukuza na kudumisha mimea ya mint mwaka mzima.

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES – 8.20 - TOP GARDEN PESTS--WHAT WORKED + DIDN'T

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES – 8.20 - TOP GARDEN PESTS--WHAT WORKED + DIDN'T

 

Here is some great information from a survey that Mother Earth News did to learn more about what works, and doesn't, when it comes to limiting insect damage in organic vegetable gardens. They had 1300 gardeners from across the United States respond, so is fairly good. I've included 7 of the top garden pests and info:

1) SLUGS-- took top honours as the most bothersome pest in home gardens, with 55 percent of respondents saying the slimy critters give them trouble year after year. Handpicking was highly rated as a control measure (87 percent success rate), followed by iron phosphate baits (86 percent) and diatomaceous earth (84 percent). Opinion was divided on eggshell barriers (crushed eggshells sprinkled around plants), with a 33 percent failure rate among gardeners who had tried that slug control method. An easy home remedy that received widespread support was beer traps (80 percent success rate).

2) SQUASH BUGS -- had sabotaged summer and winter squash for 51 percent of respondents, and even ducks couldn’t solve a serious squash bug problem. Most gardeners reported using handpicking as their primary defence, along with cleaning up infested plants at season’s end to interrupt the squash bug life cycle. The value of companion planting for squash bug management was a point of disagreement for respondents, with 21 percent saying it’s the best control method and 34 percent saying it doesn’t help.

Of the gardeners who had tried it, 79 percent said spraying neem on egg clusters and juvenile squash bugs is helpful. About 74 percent of row cover users found them useful in managing squash bugs.

3) APHIDS -- were on the watch list of 50 percent of respondents, but the success rates of various control techniques were quite high. Active interventions, including pruning off the affected plant parts and applying insecticidal soap, were reported effective, but so were more passive methods, such as attracting beneficial insects by planting flowers and herbs. Several readers noted the ability of sweet alyssum and other flowers to attract hoverflies, which eat aphids. “We attract a lot of beneficials by planting carefree flowers in the vegetable garden, including calendula, borage, zinnias, cosmos and nasturtiums”

4) SQUASH VINE BORERS-- had caused problems for 47 percent of the survey respondents. The best reported control methods were crop rotation and growing resistant varieties ofCucurbita moschata, which includes butternut squash and a few varieties of pumpkin. TheC. moschata varieties are borer-resistant because they have solid stems. Interestingly, if you’re attempting to fend off squash vine borers, lanky, long-vined, open-pollinated varieties of summer squash (zucchini and yellow crookneck, for example) may fare better than hybrids, because OP varieties are more likely to develop supplemental roots where the vines touch the ground.

Many gardeners dump soil over these places, so if squash vine borers attack a plant’s main stem, the plant can keep on growing from its backup root system.

5) JAPANESE BEETLES-- Forty-six percent of respondents reported working in the unwelcome company of Japanese beetles, with handpicking being the most popular control method. Some gardeners grow trap crops of raspberries or other fruits to keep Japanese beetles away from plants. Several commonly used interventions — garlic-pepper spray, milky spore disease, pheromone traps and row cover — had high failure rates.

6) TOMATO HORNWORMS-- were of concern to 42 percent of our survey respondents. But and handpicking were the preferred control methods, and several folks commented that tomato hornworms are among the easiest garden pests to handpick (probably because they’re large, easy to spot and produce a telltale, pebbly trail). Many gardeners reported seeing tomato hornworms often covered with rice-like cocoons of parasitic braconid wasps. “I had a lot of tomato hornworms this year, but the wasps took them out! Just like in the photos online and in bug books!” (Mid-Atlantic, more than 20 years of experience). Gardeners named zinnias and borage as good companion plants for reducing hornworm problems.

7) CUTWORMS-- were a concern for 41 percent of respondents, and effectiveness ratings for using rigid collars (made from plastic drinking cups or cardboard tissue rolls) to protect young seedlings from damage were amazingly high (93 percent effectiveness rating). A common practice to reduce cutworm damage is to cultivate the soil’s surface once or twice before planting and hope robins and other bug-eating birds will swoop in to gather the juicy cutworms. Big, sturdy seedlings are naturally resistant to cutworms, so many gardeners said they set out seedlings a bit late to avoid cutworm damage.

 

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

8 1 DAWA ASILI ZA WADUDU – 8.20 - WADUDU WA JUU WA BUSTANI--KILICHOFANYKAZI + AMBACHO HAIJAFANYA

 

Haya hapa ni baadhi ya taarifa kuu kutoka kwa uchunguzi ambao Mother Earth News ilifanya ili kujifunza zaidi kuhusu kile kinachofanya kazi na kisichofanya kazi, linapokuja suala la kupunguza uharibifu wa wadudu katika bustani za mboga za kikaboni. Walikuwa na bustani 1300 kutoka kote Merika walijibu, kwa hivyo ni nzuri sana. Nimejumuisha wadudu na habari 7 kati ya wakuu wa bustani:

1) SLUGS-- ilichukua tuzo ya juu kama wadudu wanaosumbua zaidi katika bustani za nyumbani, huku asilimia 55 ya waliohojiwa wakisema kuwa wadudu hao wenye ufinyu huwapa shida mwaka baada ya mwaka. Ukamataji mkono ulikadiriwa sana kama kipimo cha udhibiti (asilimia 87 ya kiwango cha mafanikio), ikifuatiwa na chambo cha fosfati ya chuma (asilimia 86) na ardhi ya diatomaceous (asilimia 84). Maoni yaligawanywa juu ya vizuizi vya ganda la yai (maganda ya mayai yaliyosagwa yaliyonyunyiziwa mimea), na asilimia 33 ya kiwango cha kushindwa kati ya wakulima wa bustani ambao walikuwa wamejaribu njia hiyo ya kudhibiti koa. Dawa rahisi ya nyumbani iliyopokea usaidizi mkubwa ilikuwa mitego ya bia (asilimia 80 ya kiwango cha mafanikio).

2) SQUASH BUGS -- iliharibu boga majira ya kiangazi na msimu wa baridi kwa asilimia 51 ya waliojibu, na hata bata hawakuweza kutatua tatizo kubwa la mdudu wa boga. Wakulima wengi wa bustani waliripoti kutumia kuokota kwa mikono kama ulinzi wao wa kimsingi, pamoja na kusafisha mimea iliyoshambuliwa mwishoni mwa msimu ili kukatiza mzunguko wa maisha ya mdudu wa boga. Thamani ya upandaji shirikishi kwa ajili ya kudhibiti wadudu wa boga ilikuwa jambo la kutokubaliana kwa waliohojiwa, huku asilimia 21 wakisema ndiyo njia bora ya kudhibiti na asilimia 34 wakisema haisaidii.

Kati ya wakulima wa bustani ambao walijaribu, asilimia 79 walisema kunyunyizia mwarobaini kwenye vishada vya mayai na kunguni wachanga wa boga kunasaidia. Takriban asilimia 74 ya watumiaji wa safu mlalo waliwaona kuwa muhimu katika kudhibiti mende wa boga.

3) APHIDS -- walikuwa kwenye orodha ya walinzi ya asilimia 50 ya waliohojiwa, lakini viwango vya mafanikio vya mbinu mbalimbali za udhibiti vilikuwa vya juu kabisa. Hatua amilifu, ikiwa ni pamoja na kupogoa sehemu za mmea zilizoathiriwa na kutumia sabuni ya kuua wadudu, ziliripotiwa kuwa za ufanisi, lakini pia zilikuwa mbinu tulivu zaidi, kama vile kuvutia wadudu wenye manufaa kwa kupanda maua na mimea. Wasomaji kadhaa walibainisha uwezo wa alyssum tamu na maua mengine kuvutia hoverflies, ambayo hula aphids. "Tunavutia manufaa mengi kwa kupanda maua yasiyojali katika bustani ya mboga, ikiwa ni pamoja na calendula, borage, zinnias, cosmos na nasturtiums"

4) VIPAKA VYA SQUASH VINE-- vimesababisha matatizo kwa asilimia 47 ya waliohojiwa. Mbinu bora zaidi za udhibiti zilizoripotiwa zilikuwa mzunguko wa mazao na aina sugu za Cucurbita moschata, ambayo ni pamoja na maboga ya butternut na aina chache za malenge. TheC. aina za moschata hustahimili vipekecha kwa sababu zina mashina madhubuti. Inafurahisha, ikiwa unajaribu kujikinga na vipekecha boga, aina za boga zilizopandwa kwa muda mrefu, zilizochavushwa wazi (kwa mfano, zukini na njano crookneck) zinaweza kukua vizuri zaidi kuliko mseto, kwa sababu aina za OP zina uwezekano mkubwa wa kukua. mizizi ya ziada ambapo mizabibu hugusa ardhi.

Wakulima wengi wa bustani hutupa udongo juu ya maeneo haya, kwa hivyo kama vipekecha shina vya boga hushambulia shina kuu la mmea, mmea unaweza kuendelea kukua kutoka kwa mfumo wake wa mizizi.

5) MBABU WA JAPANE-- Asilimia 46 ya waliohojiwa waliripoti kufanya kazi katika kampuni isiyokubalika ya mbawakawa wa Kijapani, huku kuokota kwa mikono ikiwa njia maarufu zaidi ya kudhibiti. Baadhi ya wakulima hupanda mazao ya mtego wa raspberries au matunda mengine ili kuwazuia mbawakawa wa Kijapani mbali na mimea. Afua kadhaa zinazotumiwa - dawa ya vitunguu-pilipili, ugonjwa wa spore ya milky, mitego ya pheromone na safu ya safu - ilikuwa na viwango vya juu vya kutofaulu.

6) MINYOO YA NYANYA-- ilikuwa ya wasiwasi kwa asilimia 42 ya wahojiwa wetu wa utafiti. Lakini na kuokota kwa mikono ndizo njia zilizopendekezwa za kudhibiti, na watu kadhaa walitoa maoni kuwa minyoo ya nyanya ni miongoni mwa wadudu waharibifu wa bustani ambao ni rahisi kuokota (labda kwa sababu ni wakubwa, ni rahisi kuonekana na hutoa njia inayojulikana, yenye mawe). Wakulima wengi wa bustani waliripoti kuwa waliona minyoo ya nyanya mara nyingi wakiwa wamefunikwa na vifukofuko vya nyigu wenye vimelea vya braconid. "Nilikuwa na pembe nyingi za nyanya mwaka huu, lakini nyigu waliwatoa! Kama vile kwenye picha mtandaoni na katika vitabu vya hitilafu!” (Katikati ya Atlantiki, zaidi ya miaka 20 ya uzoefu). Wapanda bustani walizitaja zinnias na borage kama mimea rafiki kwa kupunguza matatizo ya minyoo.

7) CUTWORMS-- zilihangaikia asilimia 41 ya waliohojiwa, na ukadiriaji wa ufanisi wa kutumia kola ngumu (zilizotengenezwa kwa vikombe vya kunywea vya plastiki au karatasi za karatasi za kadibodi) kulinda miche michanga dhidi ya uharibifu ulikuwa wa juu sana (asilimia 93 ya kiwango cha ufanisi). Zoezi la kawaida la kupunguza uharibifu wa minyoo ni kulima uso wa udongo mara moja au mbili kabla ya kupanda na tunatumai robin na ndege wengine wanaokula wadudu wataingia kwa nguvu ili kukusanya minyoo yenye juisi. Miche mikubwa na yenye nguvu kwa kawaida hustahimili minyoo, kwa hivyo wakulima wengi wa bustani walisema walichelewesha miche ili kuepuka uharibifu wa minyoo.

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES – 8.21 - FROM TOMATOE LEAVES

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES – 8.21 - FROM TOMATOE LEAVES  

From Tri-Borders Green Farmers Mandera County

ORGANIC FARMING:

As the trend of healthy lifestyles grows, more and more people natural or organic products. One of the big problems is the pest. Organic plant is vulnerable to pest. One effective way to get rid of pest is by using natural insecticide.

What is the best ingredient for insecticidal soap? It is dependent on where you live. It can be from spice or any herbs that has strong spicy flavour or contain natural substance that pest hate.

1. Natural Pesticide from Tomato Leaves

Tomato plant contains “tomatine” that effective for natural pesticide

Tomato leaves are good as natural insecticides and fungicides but need to be careful. When tomato leaves are used as natural pesticides, they can be toxic to humans. It can cause serious digestion disorder for human. Thus, it is important to use gloves, nose, and mouth cover when we make the pesticide and when spray the plants.

In the rods and leaves of tomato plants, it contains natural substance called “Tomatine”. This natural substance can control pests.

The tomato leaves pesticide can eradicate aphids, caterpillars, insect eggs, grasshoppers, moths, white flies, fungi, and decaying bacteria in our organic farms.

Here are 5 easy steps to make this natural pesticide:

Take tomato leaves about the weight of 1 kilogram. Wear gloves when picking tomato leaves.

·        Cook the tomato leaves in 2 litres of water for 30 minutes.

·       Add 2 handfuls of tomato leaves, tomato stems and tomatoes, and add 2 litres of water. Then stir the ingredients, then leave for 6 hours (1/2 day).

·       Strain the water and add 1/4 part of bar soap. Put in a spray bottle, tomato pesticides are ready to use. Spray this liquid every two days if there are quite several annoying insects.

·      Don’t forget to use hand, nose, and mouth protection when spraying.

·        KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

SOMO LA 8.2 1 DAWA ZA ASILI - KUTOKA KWA MAJANI YA NYANYA

Kutoka Tri-Borders Green Farmers Kaunti ya Mandera

KILIMO HAI:

Kadiri mtindo wa maisha ya afya unavyokua, watu zaidi na zaidi bidhaa za asili au za kikaboni. Moja ya matatizo makubwa ni wadudu. Mimea hai ni hatari kwa wadudu. Njia moja ya ufanisi ya kuondokana na wadudu ni kutumia dawa ya asili.

Je, ni kiungo gani bora kwa sabuni ya kuua wadudu? Inategemea mahali unapoishi. Inaweza kuwa kutoka kwa viungo au mimea yoyote ambayo ina ladha kali ya viungo au vyenye vitu vya asili ambavyo wadudu huchukia.

 

1. Dawa ya Asili kutoka kwa Majani ya Nyanya

Mimea ya nyanya ina "nyanya" yenye ufanisi kwa dawa ya asili

Majani ya nyanya ni mazuri kama dawa ya asili ya kuua wadudu na kuvu lakini yanahitaji kuwa makini. Wakati majani ya nyanya yanatumiwa kama dawa ya asili, inaweza kuwa sumu kwa wanadamu. Inaweza kusababisha shida kubwa ya digestion kwa wanadamu. Hivyo, ni muhimu kutumia glavu, pua na kifuniko cha mdomo tunapotengeneza dawa ya kuua wadudu na tunaponyunyizia mimea.

Katika vijiti na majani ya mimea ya nyanya, ina dutu ya asili inayoitwa "Tomatine". Dutu hii ya asili inaweza kudhibiti wadudu.

Dawa ya majani ya nyanya inaweza kuangamiza vidukari, viwavi, mayai ya wadudu, panzi, nondo, nzi weupe, fangasi, na bakteria wanaooza katika mashamba yetu ya kilimo hai.

Hapa kuna hatua 5 rahisi za kutengeneza dawa hii ya asili:

• Chukua majani ya nyanya yenye uzito wa kilo 1. Vaa glavu wakati wa kuokota majani ya nyanya.

• Pika majani ya nyanya kwa lita 2 za maji kwa dakika 30.

• Ongeza konzi 2 za majani ya nyanya, mashina ya nyanya na nyanya, na ongeza lita 2 za maji. Kisha koroga viungo, kisha uondoke kwa masaa 6 (1/2 siku).

• Chuja maji na ongeza 1/4 sehemu ya sabuni ya baa. Weka kwenye chupa ya kunyunyizia dawa, dawa za nyanya ziko tayari kutumika. Nyunyiza kioevu hiki kila baada ya siku mbili ikiwa kuna wadudu kadhaa wenye kukasirisha.

• Usisahau kutumia kinga ya mikono, pua na mdomo unaponyunyizia dawa.

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES - 8.22 - FROM PAPAYA LEAVES

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES - 8.22 - FROM PAPAYA LEAVES

2. Produce your own natural Pesticide from Papaya Leaves

Papaya leaves contains “Papain” that effective for natural pesticide

Behind the bitterness of papaya leaves, there are not many people know that this leaves can be used as natural pesticide. Papaya leaves contain the active ingredient “Papain”, making it effective for controlling caterpillars and sucking pests.

It is also used to prevent pests such as aphid, termites, small pests, and caterpillars and various types of insects. Papaya leaf extract can be used as a natural pesticide after it is mixed with kerosene and detergent.

 

Here are 6 easy steps to make this natural pesticide:

 Prepare one kilogram of papaya leaves.

·         Blend the leaves with water until they turn to porridge like consistency.

·         Pour into a container and then add 10 litre of water.

·         Add 2 tablespoons of kerosene and 30 grams of detergent

·         Stir until mixed and store for two nights.

·         After two days, strain the leaf solution and it is ready to use.

This pesticide solution can be directly applied to plants by spraying the solution into plants.

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

8 1 DAWA ZA ASILI - 8.22 - KUTOKA KWA MAJANI YA Mpapai

2. Tengeneza Dawa yako ya asili kutoka kwa Majani ya Mpapai

Majani ya papai yana "Papain" ambayo yanafaa kwa dawa ya asili

Nyuma ya uchungu wa majani ya mpapai, hakuna watu wengi wanaojua kwamba majani haya yanaweza kutumika kama dawa ya asili. Majani ya mpapai yana viambata amilifu vya "Papain", na kuifanya iwe na ufanisi katika kudhibiti viwavi na wadudu wa kunyonya.

Pia hutumika kuzuia wadudu waharibifu kama vile vidukari, mchwa, wadudu wadogo, na viwavi na aina mbalimbali za wadudu. Dondoo la jani la mpapai linaweza kutumika kama dawa ya asili baada ya kuchanganywa na mafuta ya taa na sabuni.

 

Hapa kuna hatua 6 rahisi za kutengeneza dawa hii ya asili:

• Andaa kilo moja ya majani ya mpapai.

Changanya majani na maji hadi yageuke kuwa uji kama uji.

• Mimina kwenye chombo kisha ongeza lita 10 za maji.

• Ongeza vijiko 2 vya mafuta ya taa na gramu 30 za sabuni

• Koroga hadi uchanganyike na uhifadhi kwa usiku mbili.

• Baada ya siku mbili, chuja mmumunyo wa majani na iko tayari kutumika.

Suluhisho hili la dawa linaweza kutumika moja kwa moja kwa mimea kwa kunyunyizia suluhisho kwenye mimea.

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES – 8.23 - FROM CIGARET BUTS

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

8 1 NATURAL PESTICIDES – 8.23 - FROM CIGARET BUTS

3. Produce your own natural Pesticide from Cigarette butts.

Cigarette butts contain nicotine, which can be the main ingredient of natural pesticide

Cigarette butts are the remaining parts of cigarettes that only thrown away after people smoking. However, it turns out that the cigarette butts can be used as Insecticides.

You can make powerful natural pesticides from the waste!

Cigarette butts is very effective for pesticide. This is due to the presence of alcoid compounds from tobacco leaves, namely nicotine in the cigarette butts. Nicotine can be used as a base for making insecticides. The nicotine content in tobacco can reach 0.3% to 5% dry weight. Furthermore, nicotine is a potential nerve poison and is used as a raw material for insecticide, so that it can get rid off pest like aphid, caterpillars, grasshoppers, black ants, and other pests. Pesticides from cigarette butts resemble pesticides made from neem and papaya leaves. Both are able to kill pests. However, pesticide made from cigarette butts is stronger, faster and more effective.

Here are 5 easy steps to make cigarette butts natural pesticide.

Collect a few cigarette butts, take the tobacco until about 1.2 grams.

·       Boil 9 litre of water. Pour it into a container, then put the remaining tobacco into it. The comparison is 0.6 grams of cigarette butts mixed with 4.5 litres of water.

Not less, not more. Too much water causes the pesticide poison become not effective to pest. But, if the tobacco is too excessive, the plants can die.

·        Add some dish soap. We recommend using potassium-based soaps because the ones that are too hard will damage the plants.

·        Let the mixture ferment for four to seven days.

·        After two days, strain the cigarettes solution and it is ready to use.

This pesticide solution can be directly applied to plants by spraying the solution into the plants.

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

8 1 DAWA ASILI ZA WAdudu – 8.23 - KUTOKA KWA LAKINI YA SIGARA

3. Tengeneza Kiuatilifu chako cha asili kutoka kwenye vitako vya Sigara.

Vipu vya sigara vina nikotini, ambayo inaweza kuwa kiungo kikuu cha dawa ya asili

Vipu vya sigara ni sehemu zilizobaki za sigara ambazo hutupwa tu baada ya watu kuvuta sigara. Hata hivyo, zinageuka kuwa vitako vya sigara vinaweza kutumika kama Viua wadudu.

Unaweza kutengeneza viuatilifu vya asili vyenye nguvu kutoka kwa taka!

Vipu vya sigara vinafaa sana kwa dawa. Hii ni kutokana na kuwepo kwa misombo ya alcoid kutoka kwa majani ya tumbaku, yaani nikotini kwenye vifungo vya sigara. Nikotini inaweza kutumika kama msingi wa kutengeneza dawa za kuua wadudu. Maudhui ya nikotini katika tumbaku yanaweza kufikia 0.3% hadi 5% uzito kavu. Zaidi ya hayo, nikotini inaweza kuwa sumu ya neva na hutumika kama malighafi kwa dawa ya kuua wadudu, ili iweze kuondokana na wadudu kama vile vidukari, viwavi, panzi, mchwa weusi na wadudu wengine. Viua wadudu kutoka kwenye vipuli vya sigara hufanana na viua wadudu vinavyotengenezwa kwa mwarobaini na majani ya mipapai. Wote wawili wanaweza kuua wadudu. Hata hivyo, dawa ya kuua wadudu iliyotengenezwa kwa vichungi vya sigara ina nguvu zaidi, kasi na ufanisi zaidi.

Hapa kuna hatua 5 rahisi za kutengeneza vitako vya sigara kuwa dawa asilia.

• Kusanya vitako vichache vya sigara, chukua tumbaku hiyo hadi takriban gramu 1.2.

• Chemsha lita 9 za maji. Mimina ndani ya chombo, kisha uweke tumbaku iliyobaki ndani yake. Ulinganisho ni gramu 0.6 za vitako vya sigara vikichanganywa na lita 4.5 za maji.

Sio chini, sio zaidi. Maji mengi husababisha sumu ya dawa kutokuwa na ufanisi kwa wadudu. Lakini, ikiwa tumbaku ni nyingi sana, mimea inaweza kufa.

• Ongeza sabuni ya chakula. Tunapendekeza kutumia sabuni zenye potasiamu kwa sababu zile ambazo ni ngumu sana zitaharibu mimea.

• Acha mchanganyiko uchachuke kwa siku nne hadi saba.

• Baada ya siku mbili, chuja suluhisho la sigara na itakuwa tayari kutumika.

Suluhisho hili la dawa linaweza kutumika moja kwa moja kwa mimea kwa kunyunyizia suluhisho kwenye mimea.