7 0 COMPOST – 7.14 - COMPOSTING PILE METHOD (high rainfall)

 ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.14 - COMPOSTING PILE METHOD (high rainfall)

This method is suitable for areas with high rainfall

1. Select a location

close to where you want to use the compost. The place should be sheltered from the wind, rain, sun and runoff. A compost pile must not get either very dry or very wet.

2. Measure a rectangle 120 cm

(4 feet) wide and 150 cm (5 feet) or longer. The length depends on how much composting material you have. Do not make the rectangle wider than 120 cm, as you have to be able to work on the compost without stepping on it. In rainy places, it is best to make the compost pile above the ground. In drier areas, use the pit method described later in this section.

 

3. Dig a shallow pit

about 30 cm (1 foot) deep. Put the soil on one side, you will need it later.

4. Begin building a compost

pile by putting a bottom layer of rough materials such as maize stalks and hedge cuttings in the pit. This layer should be about 30 cm thick. Chop up any materials which are too long to improve the air circulation in the pile. Sprinkle some water on this layer.

5. Add a second layer of dry vegetation,

hedge cuttings or grass. This layer should be about 15 cm thick (6 inches). Sprinkle water on this layer too. You should sprinkle water on each layer as you add it. The pile should be moist throughout.

6. Put on a third layer of animal manure.

The manure contains micro-organisms which are vital for decomposition.

7. Sprinkle some ash or dust

on this layer. The ashes contain valuable mineral including potassium, phosphorus, calcium and magnesium. The ashes also neutralise the acids produced during decomposition, especially by the animal manure.

8. The next layer should be green leaves

from high-protein leguminous trees like Calliandra, Leucaena and Sesbania. You can also use hedge cuttings of plants like Tithonia.

9. Sprinkle on a little topsoil or old compost.

The topsoil contains bacteria which are useful in the decomposition process.

Composting pile method

(c) Reproduced from Sustainable Agricole Extension Manual (IIRR)

0. Add more layers in turn, starting with dry vegetative materials, then animal manure or biogas slurry, followed by wood ash, green vegetation and topsoil. Remember to sprinkle water on every layer. Build the pile up to 1.5 m (5 feet) high. A well-made pile has almost vertical sides and a flat top.

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOJI – 7.14 - NJIA YA RUNDI LA MBOLEZI (mvua nyingi)

Njia hii inafaa kwa maeneo yenye mvua nyingi

1. Chagua eneo

karibu na mahali unapotaka kutumia mboji. Mahali panapaswa kulindwa kutokana na upepo, mvua, jua na mtiririko wa maji. Rundo la mboji lazima lisiwe kavu sana au mvua sana.

2. Pima mstatili 120 cm

(futi 4) upana na sentimita 150 (futi 5) au zaidi. Urefu unategemea ni kiasi gani cha mboji unayo. Usifanye mstatili upana zaidi ya cm 120, kwani unapaswa kuwa na uwezo wa kufanya kazi kwenye mbolea bila kukanyaga. Katika maeneo ya mvua, ni bora kufanya rundo la mbolea juu ya ardhi. Katika maeneo yenye ukame zaidi, tumia njia ya shimo iliyoelezwa baadaye katika sehemu hii.

3. Chimba shimo la kina kifupi

karibu sentimita 30 (futi 1) kwa kina. Weka udongo upande mmoja, utahitaji baadaye.

4. Anza kujenga mboji

kurundika kwa kuweka safu ya chini ya nyenzo chafu kama vile mabua ya mahindi na vipandikizi vya ua kwenye shimo. Safu hii inapaswa kuwa karibu 30 cm nene. Kata vifaa vyovyote ambavyo ni virefu sana ili kuboresha mzunguko wa hewa kwenye rundo. Nyunyiza maji kidogo kwenye safu hii.

5. Ongeza safu ya pili ya mimea kavu,

vipandikizi vya ua au nyasi. Safu hii inapaswa kuwa na unene wa cm 15 (inchi 6). Nyunyiza maji kwenye safu hii pia. Unapaswa kunyunyiza maji kwenye kila safu unapoiongeza. Rundo linapaswa kuwa na unyevu kote.

6. Weka safu ya tatu ya samadi ya wanyama.

Mbolea ina viumbe vidogo ambavyo ni muhimu kwa kuoza.

7. Nyunyiza majivu au vumbi

kwenye safu hii. Majivu yana madini ya thamani kama vile potasiamu, fosforasi, kalsiamu na magnesiamu. Majivu pia hupunguza asidi zinazozalishwa wakati wa kuoza, haswa na samadi ya wanyama.

8. Safu inayofuata inapaswa kuwa majani ya kijani

kutoka kwa miti mikunde yenye protini nyingi kama vile Calliandra, Leucaena na Sesbania. Unaweza pia kutumia vipandikizi vya ua wa mimea kama Tithonia.

9. Nyunyiza udongo wa juu kidogo au mboji ya zamani.

Udongo wa juu una bakteria ambao ni muhimu katika mchakato wa kuoza.

Mbinu ya rundo la mbolea

(c) Imetolewa tena kutoka kwa Mwongozo wa Ugani Endelevu wa Agricole (IIRR)

10. Ongeza tabaka zaidi kwa zamu, kuanzia na mimea kavu, kisha samadi ya wanyama au tope la gesi asilia, ikifuatiwa na majivu ya kuni, mimea ya kijani na udongo wa juu. Kumbuka kunyunyiza maji kwenye kila safu. Jenga rundo hadi urefu wa mita 1.5 (futi 5). Rundo lililofanywa vizuri lina pande karibu za wima na juu ya gorofa.

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    ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de

KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680

Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

 

 

7 0 COMPOST - 7.15 free

 

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      ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) 

KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680

don.ronaldo@gmx.de

Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

7 0 COMPOST – 7.16 - COMPOSTING PILE METHOD (low rainfall)

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.16 - COMPOSTING PILE METHOD (low rainfall)

 

COMPOSTING: PIT METHOD (low rainfall)

This method is suitable for low-rainfall areas

The pit method of making compost conserves moisture, so it is useful in areas with low rainfall and a long dry season. Do not use it in wet areas, as the compost may become waterlogged.

1.       Dig a pit 1.2 m

(4 feet) wide and 0.6 m (2 feet) deep, and as long as you need for the amount of materials you have.

 2.      Build a pile in the pit,

using the same method as in the pile method (see above).

 3.     Add a layer of wood ash

 (if available) along with urine and mud.

 4.     Next spread a 5cm layer

of bedding with cattle dung and soil. Sprinkle with water until moist.

 5.     Continue adding layers

until the material is 30 cm above ground level. Apply water. The heap will shrink as it decomposes.

 6.     Turn over the heap three times.

Moisten with water each time. Decomposition needs proper mixing as well as circulation of water and air. You can ensure this by turning over the material three times:

7.    7. FIRST turning:

10-15 days after filling the pit

 8.     Second turning: 15 days later

 9.     Third turning: after 2 months.

10. At the third turning,

you can take it out of the pit and put it back in. This helps the bacteria to get nitrogen out of the air.

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOJI – 7.16 - NJIA YA RUNDI LA MBOLEZI (mvua kidogo)

UTENGENEZAJI: NJIA YA SHIMO (mvua kidogo)

Njia hii inafaa kwa maeneo yenye mvua ya chini

Njia ya shimo ya kutengeneza mboji huhifadhi unyevu, hivyo ni muhimu katika maeneo yenye mvua kidogo na msimu mrefu wa kiangazi. Usitumie kwenye maeneo yenye unyevunyevu, kwani mboji inaweza kujaa maji.

1. Chimba shimo 1.2 m

(futi 4) upana na 0.6 m (futi 2) kina, na mradi unahitaji kwa kiasi cha nyenzo ulicho nacho.

2. Jenga rundo kwenye shimo,

kutumia njia sawa na katika njia ya rundo (tazama hapo juu).

3. Ongeza safu ya majivu ya kuni

  (ikiwa inapatikana) pamoja na mkojo na matope.

4. Ifuatayo ueneze safu ya 5cm

ya matandiko yenye kinyesi cha ng'ombe na udongo. Nyunyiza na maji hadi unyevu.

5. Endelea kuongeza tabaka

mpaka nyenzo ni 30 cm juu ya usawa wa ardhi. Omba maji. Lundo litapungua kadri linavyooza.

6. Pindua lundo mara tatu.

Loweka kwa maji kila wakati. Mtengano unahitaji mchanganyiko sahihi pamoja na mzunguko wa maji na hewa. Unaweza kuhakikisha hili kwa kugeuza nyenzo mara tatu:

7. Mgeuko wa kwanza:

Siku 10-15 baada ya kujaza shimo

8. Zamu ya pili: Siku 15 baadaye

9. Mgeuko wa tatu: baada ya miezi 2.

10. Katika zamu ya tatu.

unaweza kuitoa kwenye shimo na kuirudisha ndani. Hii husaidia bakteria kutoa nitrojeni kutoka hewani.

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    ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de
KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680
Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

7 0 COMPOST – 7.17 - GOOD TIME TO START A COMPOST PILE

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.17 - GOOD TIME TO START A COMPOST PILE

Now after the harvest it’s a good time to start your Compost Pile if you haven't started one yet. For best results, you will want to use a mixture of ingredients. The right balance is something learned by experience, but it's best to always use equal amounts by volume of Greens and Browns and layer them. (SEE LISTS BELOW).

Some things, like grass mowing and weeds, rot quickly. They work as 'activators', getting the composting started. Older and tougher plant material is slower to rot, but gives body to it, and usually will make up the bulk of your compost heap.

COMPOST MATERIALS

"GREENS" or nitrogen rich ingredients

Urine (dilute it with water)

Grass cuttings

Raw vegetable peelings from your kitchen

Tea bags and leaves, coffee grounds

Young green weed growth... avoid weeds with seeds

Green Tree Pruning’s

Animal manure from --rabbits, goats, cows, horses, chickens

 

"BROWNS" or carbon rich ingredients - slow to rot

Cardboard

Wastepaper and junk mail

Pet Bedding materials

Hedge clippings

Old plants

Wood shavings

Fallen leaves

Wood ash

Crushed Egg Shells

You can gather enough material to fill your compost container or pile, at one time, or you can add to it as you get material. Make sure you have a mixture of soft and tough materials. You can chop up tough items using shears and chop up leaves with a shredder--if you have one.

Mix ingredients together as much as possible before adding to your compost bin. I like to do a layering process, with one layer of "Brown" items; such as the fallen leaves on the ground and cardboard from old shipping boxes, and then I add a "Green" layer on top of that; with our rabbit poop/pee and left over veggies and tea bags. Then you do another layer of each until you fill your bin, or if you are just doing a compost heap in your yard---until you get it up to about 36 inches high. Water your Compost Bin or Compost Heap as you go.

Within a few days, the heap is likely to get hot to the touch. When it begins to cool down, or a week or two has passed, turn the heap. Add water if it is dry, or dry material if it is soggy. The heap should heat up again; the new supply of air you have mixed in allows the fast acting microbes to continue with their work. You can continue to stir your compost bin or heap every couple weeks, but the heating will be less and less. When it no longer heats up again, leave it undisturbed to finish composting.

When your Composting materials in your bin or your Composting heap in yard have turned into a dark brown, earthy smelling material, the composting process is complete. It is always best to start in the Fall, but you can start late Winter/Early Spring.

 

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOLEA - 7.17 - WAKATI MWEMA WA KUANZA LUNDIKO LA MBOlea

Sasa baada ya kuvuna ni wakati mzuri wa kuanza Rundo lako la Mbolea ikiwa bado haujaanza. Kwa matokeo bora, utahitaji kutumia mchanganyiko wa viungo. Usawa sahihi ni kitu ambacho umejifunza kutokana na uzoefu, lakini ni vyema kutumia kiasi sawa kila wakati kwa wingi wa Kijani na Browns na kuziweka katika safu. (TAZAMA ORODHA HAPA CHINI).

Baadhi ya vitu, kama vile kukata nyasi na magugu, huoza haraka. Wanafanya kazi kama 'vianzishaji', ili kuanza kutengeneza mboji. Nyenzo kuu ya mimea iliyozeeka na ngumu huchelewa kuoza, lakini huipa mwili, na kwa kawaida itaunda sehemu kubwa ya lundo lako la mboji.

NYENZO ZA MBOJI

"KIJANI" au viungo vyenye nitrojeni

Mkojo (punguza kwa maji)

Vipandikizi vya nyasi

Maganda mbichi ya mboga kutoka jikoni yako

Mifuko ya chai na majani, misingi ya kahawa

Ukuaji mchanga wa magugu ya kijani... epuka magugu yenye mbegu

Kupogoa kwa Miti ya Kijani

Mbolea ya wanyama kutoka --sungura, mbuzi, ng'ombe, farasi, kuku

 

"BROWNS" au viungo vyenye kaboni - polepole kuoza

Kadibodi

Barua taka na barua taka

Nyenzo za kitanda cha wanyama

Vipandikizi vya ua

Mimea ya zamani

Kunyoa kuni

Majani yaliyoanguka

Majivu ya kuni

Maganda ya Mayai yaliyosagwa

 

Unaweza kukusanya nyenzo za kutosha kujaza chombo chako cha mboji au rundo, kwa wakati mmoja, au unaweza kuongeza kwake unapopata nyenzo. Hakikisha una mchanganyiko wa nyenzo laini na ngumu. Unaweza kukata vitu vikali kwa kutumia shears na kukata majani kwa kisulilia - ikiwa unayo.

Changanya viungo pamoja kadri uwezavyo kabla ya kuongeza kwenye pipa lako la mboji. Ninapenda kufanya mchakato wa kuweka safu, na safu moja ya vitu vya "Brown"; kama vile majani yaliyoanguka chini na kadibodi kutoka kwa masanduku ya zamani ya usafirishaji, na kisha ninaongeza safu ya "Kijani" juu yake; na kinyesi chetu cha sungura na kuacha mboga na mifuko ya chai. Kisha unafanya safu nyingine ya kila moja hadi ujaze pipa lako, au ikiwa unafanya lundo la mboji kwenye yadi yako---mpaka uifikishe hadi inchi 36 hivi kwenda juu. Mwagilia Bin yako ya Mbolea au Lundo la Mbolea unapoenda.

Ndani ya siku chache, lundo linaweza kupata moto kwa kuguswa. Inapoanza kupoa, au wiki moja au mbili zimepita, geuza lundo. Ongeza maji ikiwa ni kavu, au nyenzo kavu ikiwa imelowa. Lundo linapaswa joto tena; usambazaji mpya wa hewa uliochanganya huruhusu vijidudu vinavyofanya kazi haraka kuendelea na kazi yao. Unaweza kuendelea kukoroga pipa lako la mboji au lundo kila baada ya wiki kadhaa, lakini hali ya kuongeza joto itakuwa kidogo na kidogo. Isipopata joto tena, iache bila usumbufu ili kumaliza kutengeneza mboji.

Wakati Nyenzo zako za Kuweka mboji kwenye pipa lako au lundo lako la Mbolea kwenye yadi zimegeuka kuwa hudhurungi iliyokoza, yenye harufu ya udongo, mchakato wa kutengeneza mboji umekamilika. Daima ni bora kuanza katika Anguko, lakini unaweza kuanza mwishoni mwa Majira ya baridi / Mapema Spring.

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 ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de
KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680
Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

7 0 COMPOST - 7.18 free

 

Copyright by

    

        ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de
KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680
Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.
 

7 0 COMPOST 7.19 free

 

Copyright by

      

     ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de
KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680
Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

7 0 COMPOST – 7.20 - HEATING

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.20 - HEATING

A compost heater, also known as a bio-pile, is an arrangement for using the waste heat from a composting system. The heat generated by the work of microorganisms and small organisms during the rotting process is appropriately diverted so that it is available at the place of use. This can be a residential building, for example.

In contrast to the production of biogas, sufficient oxygen must be supplied here to enable the aerobic decomposition process and to avoid putrefaction. To create optimal conditions for the biological processes, water may have to be added at the beginning. Once the decomposition has really started, water is produced as a decomposition product, so that the compost remains moist enough by itself. Ultimately, the entire biomass is essentially broken down into carbon dioxide and water with the development of heat if the process is kept running.

Usually, however, the process is stopped at the end of the heating season and the humus that has formed is removed.

The French agronomist Jean Pain, who dealt with agriculture in harmony with nature, is the inventor of the principle.

With this type, a large compost heap in the open air is run through with a twisted water pipe. The water cycle dissipates the resulting heat and transports it to a utility building. There, the water heated by the compost heap can be fed directly into the heating circuit or its heat can be transferred to the heating circuit via a heat exchanger.

The kiln must contain around 8,000 litres of biomass in order to be able to maintain a temperature in winter at which the composting process can continue.

Compost heating silo within the utility building.

Compost silo inside a residential building.

    1.       Main article: Compost heating silo

The composting process takes place in a silo. This is set up inside a building and emits its heating power directly through the wall of the vessel. A water circuit for distributing the heat can be installed as an option but is not required for simple systems.

    2.      Calculations

On a garden plot, biomass can be harvested in the form of lawn cuttings, leaf shedding, shrub cuttings, etc. From this, an annual amount of energy of up to 3860 kWh per 1000 m² can be obtained. The known data from the cultivation of an energy forest (short rotation plantation) serve as the basis for calculation.

 

 

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOLEA - 7.20 - KUPATA JOTO

Hita ya mboji, pia inajulikana kama rundo la bio, ni mpangilio wa kutumia joto la taka kutoka kwa mfumo wa mboji. Joto linalotokana na kazi ya microorganisms na viumbe vidogo wakati wa mchakato wa kuoza huelekezwa ipasavyo ili ipatikane mahali pa matumizi. Hii inaweza kuwa jengo la makazi, kwa mfano.

Kinyume na utengenezaji wa gesi asilia, oksijeni ya kutosha lazima itolewe hapa ili kuwezesha mchakato wa mtengano wa aerobiki na kuepuka kuoza. Ili kuunda hali bora kwa michakato ya kibaolojia, maji yanaweza kuongezwa mwanzoni. Mara tu mtengano unapoanza, maji hutolewa kama bidhaa ya mtengano, ili mboji ibaki na unyevu wa kutosha yenyewe. Hatimaye, majani yote kimsingi yamegawanywa katika kaboni dioksidi na maji pamoja na maendeleo ya joto ikiwa mchakato utaendelea.

Kawaida, hata hivyo, mchakato huo umesimamishwa mwishoni mwa msimu wa joto na humus ambayo imeunda huondolewa.

Mtaalamu wa kilimo wa Kifaransa Jean Pain, ambaye alishughulikia kilimo kwa kupatana na asili, ndiye mvumbuzi wa kanuni hiyo.

Kwa aina hii, rundo kubwa la mbolea kwenye hewa ya wazi hupitishwa na bomba la maji lililopotoka. Mzunguko wa maji hutawanya joto linalotokana na kusafirisha kwenye jengo la matumizi. Huko, maji yanayochomwa na lundo la mbolea yanaweza kulishwa moja kwa moja kwenye mzunguko wa joto au joto lake linaweza kuhamishiwa kwenye mzunguko wa joto kupitia mchanganyiko wa joto.

Tanuru lazima liwe na takriban lita 8,000 za majani ili kuweza kudumisha halijoto wakati wa baridi ambapo mchakato wa kutengeneza mboji unaweza kuendelea.

Silo ya kupokanzwa mboji ndani ya jengo la matumizi.

Silo ya mbolea ndani ya jengo la makazi.

1. Makala kuu: Silo ya kupokanzwa mboji

Mchakato wa kutengeneza mboji hufanyika kwenye silo. Hii imewekwa ndani ya jengo na hutoa nguvu zake za kupokanzwa moja kwa moja kupitia ukuta wa chombo. Saketi ya maji ya kusambaza joto inaweza kusakinishwa kama chaguo lakini haihitajiki kwa mifumo rahisi.

2. Mahesabu

Kwenye shamba la bustani, majani yanaweza kuvunwa kwa njia ya vipandikizi vya lawn, kumwaga majani, vipandikizi vya vichaka, nk. Kutokana na hili, kiasi cha kila mwaka cha nishati ya hadi 3860 kWh kwa 1000 m² kinaweza kupatikana. Data inayojulikana kutoka kwa kilimo cha msitu wa nishati (shamba fupi la mzunguko) hutumika kama msingi wa kuhesabu.

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       ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de
KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680
Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.