Sonntag, 5. März 2023

7 0 COMPOST – 7.13 - HOW TO STORE FARMYARD MANURE

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.13 - HOW TO STORE FARMYARD MANURE 


 

Farmyard manure should ideally be collected and stored for a while to obtain a manure of high quality. The best result is achieved if the farmyard manure is composted. Manure stored under anaerobic conditions (e.g. in waterlogged pits) is of inferior quality. 

Collection of farmyard manure is easiest if the animals are kept in stables. For storage, the manure should be mixed with dry plant material (straw, grass, crop residues, leaves etc.) to absorb the liquid. Straw that has been cut or mashed by spreading it out on a roadside can absorb more water than long straw. 

Usually, the manure is stored next to the stable, either in heaps or in pits. It can also be stored within the stable as bedding, provided it is covered with fresh bedding material. In any case, the farmyard manure should be protected from sun, wind and rain. Water logging, as well as drying out should be avoided, to avoid nutrient losses. The storage site should be impermeable and have a slight slope. Ideally, a trench collects the liquid from the manure heap and the urine from the stable. A dam around the heap prevents uncontrolled in- and outflow of urine and water. 

Storing manure in pits is particularly suitable for dry areas and dry seasons. Storage in pits reduces the risk of drying out and the need to water the pile. However, there is greater risk of waterlogging and more effort is required as the pit needs to be dug out. For this method, a 90 cm (3 ft) to 150 cm ( 5 ft) deep pit is dug with a slight slope at the bottom. The bottom is compressed and then first covered with straw. Until 150 cm high. Means in the sandwich system store up to 5 ft. 

The pit is filled with layers about 30 cm (1 ft) thick and each layer compressed and covered with 5 cm (2.5 inch) of manure and then a layer of 5 cm ( 2,5 inch )  earth. 

The pit is filled up until it stands about 30 cm above ground and then covered with 10 cm of soil. 

Humidity in the manure heap must be controlled. To avoid nutrient losses, it should neither be too wet nor too dry. Some indicators to monitor the humidity of the manure are.

 

       If white fungus appears (threads and white spots), the manure is too dry and should be dampened with water or urine. 

       A yellow-green colour and/or bad smell are signs that the manure is too wet and not sufficiently aerated. 

       If the manure shows a brown to black colour throughout the heap, the conditions are ideal. 

 


 

TEXT in the picture:

Appropriated treatment of farmland manure. 

 

      Protect from sun and rain

      Protect from wind

      Mix with straw

      Avoid water logging

      Build a dam to avoid in- and outflow

      Compress if dry Insure solid underground 

      Water if necessary. 





 

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOLEA – 7.13 - NAMNA YA KUHIFADHI MADHI YA SHAMBA

 

Mbolea ya shambani inapaswa kukusanywa na kuhifadhiwa kwa muda ili kupata samadi ya ubora wa juu. Matokeo bora hupatikana ikiwa samadi ya shamba itawekwa mboji. Mbolea iliyohifadhiwa chini ya hali ya anaerobic (k.m. kwenye mashimo yaliyojaa maji) ni ya ubora duni.

Ukusanyaji wa samadi ya shambani ni rahisi zaidi ikiwa wanyama watawekwa kwenye mazizi. Kwa kuhifadhi, mbolea inapaswa kuchanganywa na nyenzo kavu ya mimea (majani, nyasi, mabaki ya mazao, majani nk) ili kunyonya kioevu. Majani ambayo yamekatwa au kupondwa kwa kutandazwa kando ya barabara yanaweza kunyonya maji mengi kuliko majani marefu.

Kwa kawaida, samadi huhifadhiwa karibu na zizi, ama kwenye chungu au kwenye mashimo. Inaweza pia kuhifadhiwa ndani ya zizi kama matandiko, mradi imefunikwa na nyenzo mpya ya matandiko. Kwa hali yoyote, mbolea ya shamba inapaswa kulindwa kutokana na jua, upepo na mvua. Kukata maji, pamoja na kukausha nje kunapaswa kuepukwa, ili kuepuka hasara za virutubisho. Tovuti ya kuhifadhi inapaswa kuwa isiyoweza kupenyeza na kuwa na mteremko mdogo. Kimsingi, mtaro hukusanya kioevu kutoka kwenye lundo la samadi na mkojo kutoka kwenye zizi. Bwawa kuzunguka lundo huzuia mtiririko usiodhibitiwa wa mkojo na maji.

Kuhifadhi samadi kwenye mashimo kunafaa hasa kwa maeneo kavu na misimu ya kiangazi. Uhifadhi kwenye mashimo hupunguza hatari ya kukauka na hitaji la kumwagilia rundo. Hata hivyo, kuna hatari kubwa ya kujaa maji na juhudi zaidi zinahitajika kwani shimo linahitaji kuchimbwa. Kwa njia hii, shimo lenye kina cha sentimita 90 (futi 3) hadi 150 cm huchimbwa na mteremko mdogo chini. Chini ni compressed na kisha kwanza kufunikwa na majani. Hadi urefu wa 150 cm. Njia katika mfumo wa sandwich huhifadhi hadi futi 5.

Shimo limejaa matabaka yenye unene wa sm 30 (futi 1) na kila safu imebanwa na kufunikwa na sm 5 (inchi 2.5) ya samadi na kisha safu ya sm 5 ( 2,5 inch ) ardhi.

Shimo linajazwa hadi lisimame karibu sm 30 juu ya ardhi na kisha kufunikwa na sm 10 za udongo.

Unyevu kwenye lundo la samadi lazima udhibitiwe. Ili kuzuia upotezaji wa virutubishi, haipaswi kuwa mvua sana au kavu sana. Baadhi ya viashiria vya kufuatilia unyevunyevu wa samadi ni.

 

• Iwapo fangasi nyeupe itaonekana (nyuzi na madoa meupe), samadi ni kavu sana na inapaswa kunyunyishwa kwa maji au mkojo.

• Rangi ya manjano-kijani na/au harufu mbaya ni ishara kwamba samadi ni mvua sana na haina hewa ya kutosha.

• Iwapo samadi itaonyesha rangi ya kahawia hadi nyeusi katika lundo lote, hali ni nzuri.

 

TEXT kwenye picha:

Matibabu sahihi ya samadi ya shamba.

 

• Kinga dhidi ya jua na mvua

• Kinga dhidi ya upepo

• Changanya na majani

• Epuka ukataji wa maji

• Jenga bwawa ili kuepuka kuingia na kutoka nje

• Shindana ikiwa kavu

• Hakikisha chini ya ardhi imara

• Maji ikiwa ni lazima.


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         ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L   

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de

KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680

Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

 


7 0 COMPOST – 7.14 - COMPOSTING PILE METHOD (high rainfall)

 ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.14 - COMPOSTING PILE METHOD (high rainfall)

This method is suitable for areas with high rainfall

1. Select a location

close to where you want to use the compost. The place should be sheltered from the wind, rain, sun and runoff. A compost pile must not get either very dry or very wet.

2. Measure a rectangle 120 cm

(4 feet) wide and 150 cm (5 feet) or longer. The length depends on how much composting material you have. Do not make the rectangle wider than 120 cm, as you have to be able to work on the compost without stepping on it. In rainy places, it is best to make the compost pile above the ground. In drier areas, use the pit method described later in this section.

 

3. Dig a shallow pit

about 30 cm (1 foot) deep. Put the soil on one side, you will need it later.

4. Begin building a compost

pile by putting a bottom layer of rough materials such as maize stalks and hedge cuttings in the pit. This layer should be about 30 cm thick. Chop up any materials which are too long to improve the air circulation in the pile. Sprinkle some water on this layer.

5. Add a second layer of dry vegetation,

hedge cuttings or grass. This layer should be about 15 cm thick (6 inches). Sprinkle water on this layer too. You should sprinkle water on each layer as you add it. The pile should be moist throughout.

6. Put on a third layer of animal manure.

The manure contains micro-organisms which are vital for decomposition.

7. Sprinkle some ash or dust

on this layer. The ashes contain valuable mineral including potassium, phosphorus, calcium and magnesium. The ashes also neutralise the acids produced during decomposition, especially by the animal manure.

8. The next layer should be green leaves

from high-protein leguminous trees like Calliandra, Leucaena and Sesbania. You can also use hedge cuttings of plants like Tithonia.

9. Sprinkle on a little topsoil or old compost.

The topsoil contains bacteria which are useful in the decomposition process.

Composting pile method

(c) Reproduced from Sustainable Agricole Extension Manual (IIRR)

0. Add more layers in turn, starting with dry vegetative materials, then animal manure or biogas slurry, followed by wood ash, green vegetation and topsoil. Remember to sprinkle water on every layer. Build the pile up to 1.5 m (5 feet) high. A well-made pile has almost vertical sides and a flat top.





KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOJI – 7.14 - NJIA YA RUNDI LA MBOLEZI (mvua nyingi)

Njia hii inafaa kwa maeneo yenye mvua nyingi

1. Chagua eneo

karibu na mahali unapotaka kutumia mboji. Mahali panapaswa kulindwa kutokana na upepo, mvua, jua na mtiririko wa maji. Rundo la mboji lazima lisiwe kavu sana au mvua sana.

2. Pima mstatili 120 cm

(futi 4) upana na sentimita 150 (futi 5) au zaidi. Urefu unategemea ni kiasi gani cha mboji unayo. Usifanye mstatili upana zaidi ya cm 120, kwani unapaswa kuwa na uwezo wa kufanya kazi kwenye mbolea bila kukanyaga. Katika maeneo ya mvua, ni bora kufanya rundo la mbolea juu ya ardhi. Katika maeneo yenye ukame zaidi, tumia njia ya shimo iliyoelezwa baadaye katika sehemu hii.

3. Chimba shimo la kina kifupi

karibu sentimita 30 (futi 1) kwa kina. Weka udongo upande mmoja, utahitaji baadaye.

4. Anza kujenga mboji

kurundika kwa kuweka safu ya chini ya nyenzo chafu kama vile mabua ya mahindi na vipandikizi vya ua kwenye shimo. Safu hii inapaswa kuwa karibu 30 cm nene. Kata vifaa vyovyote ambavyo ni virefu sana ili kuboresha mzunguko wa hewa kwenye rundo. Nyunyiza maji kidogo kwenye safu hii.

5. Ongeza safu ya pili ya mimea kavu,

vipandikizi vya ua au nyasi. Safu hii inapaswa kuwa na unene wa cm 15 (inchi 6). Nyunyiza maji kwenye safu hii pia. Unapaswa kunyunyiza maji kwenye kila safu unapoiongeza. Rundo linapaswa kuwa na unyevu kote.

6. Weka safu ya tatu ya samadi ya wanyama.

Mbolea ina viumbe vidogo ambavyo ni muhimu kwa kuoza.

7. Nyunyiza majivu au vumbi

kwenye safu hii. Majivu yana madini ya thamani kama vile potasiamu, fosforasi, kalsiamu na magnesiamu. Majivu pia hupunguza asidi zinazozalishwa wakati wa kuoza, haswa na samadi ya wanyama.

8. Safu inayofuata inapaswa kuwa majani ya kijani

kutoka kwa miti mikunde yenye protini nyingi kama vile Calliandra, Leucaena na Sesbania. Unaweza pia kutumia vipandikizi vya ua wa mimea kama Tithonia.

9. Nyunyiza udongo wa juu kidogo au mboji ya zamani.

Udongo wa juu una bakteria ambao ni muhimu katika mchakato wa kuoza.

Mbinu ya rundo la mbolea

(c) Imetolewa tena kutoka kwa Mwongozo wa Ugani Endelevu wa Agricole (IIRR)

10. Ongeza tabaka zaidi kwa zamu, kuanzia na mimea kavu, kisha samadi ya wanyama au tope la gesi asilia, ikifuatiwa na majivu ya kuni, mimea ya kijani na udongo wa juu. Kumbuka kunyunyiza maji kwenye kila safu. Jenga rundo hadi urefu wa mita 1.5 (futi 5). Rundo lililofanywa vizuri lina pande karibu za wima na juu ya gorofa.


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    ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de

KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680

Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

 

 

7 0 COMPOST - 7.15 free

 

Copyright by

  
      ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) 

KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680

don.ronaldo@gmx.de

Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

7 0 COMPOST – 7.16 - COMPOSTING PILE METHOD (low rainfall)

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.16 - COMPOSTING PILE METHOD (low rainfall)

 

COMPOSTING: PIT METHOD (low rainfall)

This method is suitable for low-rainfall areas

The pit method of making compost conserves moisture, so it is useful in areas with low rainfall and a long dry season. Do not use it in wet areas, as the compost may become waterlogged.

1.       Dig a pit 1.2 m

(4 feet) wide and 0.6 m (2 feet) deep, and as long as you need for the amount of materials you have.

 2.      Build a pile in the pit,

using the same method as in the pile method (see above).

 3.     Add a layer of wood ash

 (if available) along with urine and mud.

 4.     Next spread a 5cm layer

of bedding with cattle dung and soil. Sprinkle with water until moist.

 5.     Continue adding layers

until the material is 30 cm above ground level. Apply water. The heap will shrink as it decomposes.

 6.     Turn over the heap three times.

Moisten with water each time. Decomposition needs proper mixing as well as circulation of water and air. You can ensure this by turning over the material three times:

7.    7. FIRST turning:

10-15 days after filling the pit

 8.     Second turning: 15 days later

 9.     Third turning: after 2 months.

10. At the third turning,

you can take it out of the pit and put it back in. This helps the bacteria to get nitrogen out of the air.





KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOJI – 7.16 - NJIA YA RUNDI LA MBOLEZI (mvua kidogo)

UTENGENEZAJI: NJIA YA SHIMO (mvua kidogo)

Njia hii inafaa kwa maeneo yenye mvua ya chini

Njia ya shimo ya kutengeneza mboji huhifadhi unyevu, hivyo ni muhimu katika maeneo yenye mvua kidogo na msimu mrefu wa kiangazi. Usitumie kwenye maeneo yenye unyevunyevu, kwani mboji inaweza kujaa maji.

1. Chimba shimo 1.2 m

(futi 4) upana na 0.6 m (futi 2) kina, na mradi unahitaji kwa kiasi cha nyenzo ulicho nacho.

2. Jenga rundo kwenye shimo,

kutumia njia sawa na katika njia ya rundo (tazama hapo juu).

3. Ongeza safu ya majivu ya kuni

  (ikiwa inapatikana) pamoja na mkojo na matope.

4. Ifuatayo ueneze safu ya 5cm

ya matandiko yenye kinyesi cha ng'ombe na udongo. Nyunyiza na maji hadi unyevu.

5. Endelea kuongeza tabaka

mpaka nyenzo ni 30 cm juu ya usawa wa ardhi. Omba maji. Lundo litapungua kadri linavyooza.

6. Pindua lundo mara tatu.

Loweka kwa maji kila wakati. Mtengano unahitaji mchanganyiko sahihi pamoja na mzunguko wa maji na hewa. Unaweza kuhakikisha hili kwa kugeuza nyenzo mara tatu:

7. Mgeuko wa kwanza:

Siku 10-15 baada ya kujaza shimo

8. Zamu ya pili: Siku 15 baadaye

9. Mgeuko wa tatu: baada ya miezi 2.

10. Katika zamu ya tatu.

unaweza kuitoa kwenye shimo na kuirudisha ndani. Hii husaidia bakteria kutoa nitrojeni kutoka hewani.

Copyright by

    ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de
KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680
Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

7 0 COMPOST – 7.17 - GOOD TIME TO START A COMPOST PILE


ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.17 - GOOD TIME TO START A COMPOST PILE


Now after the harvest it’s a good time to start your Compost Pile if you haven't started one yet. For best results, you will want to use a mixture of ingredients. The right balance is something learned by experience, but it's best to always use equal amounts by volume of Greens and Browns and layer them. (SEE LISTS BELOW).

Some things, like grass mowing and weeds, rot quickly. They work as 'activators', getting the composting started. Older and tougher plant material is slower to rot, but gives body to it, and usually will make up the bulk of your compost heap.

COMPOST MATERIALS

"GREENS" or nitrogen rich ingredients

Urine (dilute it with water)

Grass cuttings

Raw vegetable peelings from your kitchen

Tea bags and leaves, coffee grounds

Young green weed growth... avoid weeds with seeds

Green Tree Pruning’s

Animal manure from --rabbits, goats, cows, horses, chickens

 

"BROWNS" or carbon rich ingredients - slow to rot

Cardboard

Wastepaper and junk mail

Pet Bedding materials

Hedge clippings

Old plants

Wood shavings

Fallen leaves

Wood ash

Crushed Egg Shells

You can gather enough material to fill your compost container or pile, at one time, or you can add to it as you get material. Make sure you have a mixture of soft and tough materials. You can chop up tough items using shears and chop up leaves with a shredder--if you have one.

Mix ingredients together as much as possible before adding to your compost bin. I like to do a layering process, with one layer of "Brown" items; such as the fallen leaves on the ground and cardboard from old shipping boxes, and then I add a "Green" layer on top of that; with our rabbit poop/pee and left over veggies and tea bags. Then you do another layer of each until you fill your bin, or if you are just doing a compost heap in your yard---until you get it up to about 36 inches high. Water your Compost Bin or Compost Heap as you go.

Within a few days, the heap is likely to get hot to the touch. When it begins to cool down, or a week or two has passed, turn the heap. Add water if it is dry, or dry material if it is soggy. The heap should heat up again; the new supply of air you have mixed in allows the fast acting microbes to continue with their work. You can continue to stir your compost bin or heap every couple weeks, but the heating will be less and less. When it no longer heats up again, leave it undisturbed to finish composting.

When your Composting materials in your bin or your Composting heap in yard have turned into a dark brown, earthy smelling material, the composting process is complete. It is always best to start in the Fall, but you can start late Winter/Early Spring.

 



KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOLEA - 7.17 - WAKATI MWEMA WA KUANZA LUNDIKO LA MBOlea

Sasa baada ya kuvuna ni wakati mzuri wa kuanza Rundo lako la Mbolea ikiwa bado haujaanza. Kwa matokeo bora, utahitaji kutumia mchanganyiko wa viungo. Usawa sahihi ni kitu ambacho umejifunza kutokana na uzoefu, lakini ni vyema kutumia kiasi sawa kila wakati kwa wingi wa Kijani na Browns na kuziweka katika safu. (TAZAMA ORODHA HAPA CHINI).

Baadhi ya vitu, kama vile kukata nyasi na magugu, huoza haraka. Wanafanya kazi kama 'vianzishaji', ili kuanza kutengeneza mboji. Nyenzo kuu ya mimea iliyozeeka na ngumu huchelewa kuoza, lakini huipa mwili, na kwa kawaida itaunda sehemu kubwa ya lundo lako la mboji.

NYENZO ZA MBOJI

"KIJANI" au viungo vyenye nitrojeni

Mkojo (punguza kwa maji)

Vipandikizi vya nyasi

Maganda mbichi ya mboga kutoka jikoni yako

Mifuko ya chai na majani, misingi ya kahawa

Ukuaji mchanga wa magugu ya kijani... epuka magugu yenye mbegu

Kupogoa kwa Miti ya Kijani

Mbolea ya wanyama kutoka --sungura, mbuzi, ng'ombe, farasi, kuku

 

"BROWNS" au viungo vyenye kaboni - polepole kuoza

Kadibodi

Barua taka na barua taka

Nyenzo za kitanda cha wanyama

Vipandikizi vya ua

Mimea ya zamani

Kunyoa kuni

Majani yaliyoanguka

Majivu ya kuni

Maganda ya Mayai yaliyosagwa

 

Unaweza kukusanya nyenzo za kutosha kujaza chombo chako cha mboji au rundo, kwa wakati mmoja, au unaweza kuongeza kwake unapopata nyenzo. Hakikisha una mchanganyiko wa nyenzo laini na ngumu. Unaweza kukata vitu vikali kwa kutumia shears na kukata majani kwa kisulilia - ikiwa unayo.

Changanya viungo pamoja kadri uwezavyo kabla ya kuongeza kwenye pipa lako la mboji. Ninapenda kufanya mchakato wa kuweka safu, na safu moja ya vitu vya "Brown"; kama vile majani yaliyoanguka chini na kadibodi kutoka kwa masanduku ya zamani ya usafirishaji, na kisha ninaongeza safu ya "Kijani" juu yake; na kinyesi chetu cha sungura na kuacha mboga na mifuko ya chai. Kisha unafanya safu nyingine ya kila moja hadi ujaze pipa lako, au ikiwa unafanya lundo la mboji kwenye yadi yako---mpaka uifikishe hadi inchi 36 hivi kwenda juu. Mwagilia Bin yako ya Mbolea au Lundo la Mbolea unapoenda.

Ndani ya siku chache, lundo linaweza kupata moto kwa kuguswa. Inapoanza kupoa, au wiki moja au mbili zimepita, geuza lundo. Ongeza maji ikiwa ni kavu, au nyenzo kavu ikiwa imelowa. Lundo linapaswa joto tena; usambazaji mpya wa hewa uliochanganya huruhusu vijidudu vinavyofanya kazi haraka kuendelea na kazi yao. Unaweza kuendelea kukoroga pipa lako la mboji au lundo kila baada ya wiki kadhaa, lakini hali ya kuongeza joto itakuwa kidogo na kidogo. Isipopata joto tena, iache bila usumbufu ili kumaliza kutengeneza mboji.

Wakati Nyenzo zako za Kuweka mboji kwenye pipa lako au lundo lako la Mbolea kwenye yadi zimegeuka kuwa hudhurungi iliyokoza, yenye harufu ya udongo, mchakato wa kutengeneza mboji umekamilika. Daima ni bora kuanza katika Anguko, lakini unaweza kuanza mwishoni mwa Majira ya baridi / Mapema Spring.

Copyright by

 ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de
KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680
Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 


7 0 COMPOST - 7.18 free

 

Copyright by

    

        ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de
KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680
Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.
 


7 0 COMPOST 7.19 free

 

Copyright by

      

     ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de
KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680
Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.