ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY
6 TOMATOES – 6.50 - PRODUKTION
GUIDE 1 hector
Planting dates
• All year round in frost free areas or greenhouse
Days to Harvest • 80 to 120 days
Depends on cultivar
Harvesting duration • 60 Days
Yield • 20 000 - 60 000 kgs per ha.
Soil requirements • pH 5.0 to 5.5, • Sandy loam soils, • Soil testing is
key
Seed bed
• 120– 160 g in a nursery seed bed of about 60 m2
• 7 - 10 days emergence
• Floating seed trays can also be used
• Ensure free drainage to avoid damping off
1. Transplanting
• 6 - 8 weeks after emergence
• Harden seedlings when they have 3-5 true leaves
2. Transplanting
Possibly transplant a second time and plant deeper
again down to the first leaf.
Tomatoes and potatoes are the only plants that will
develop lateral roots when the main stem is covered in soil. Roots can be in a
plastic pot 5 l until 20 to 20 cm.
Spacing
• In-row: 300 - 500mm
• Inter-row: 1000 - 1500mm Dripline between both rows.
Fertilizer requirements
Natural dung
r good compost in the earth in howls 30x30x30 cm nearly 2 months before
planting. Cover with earth.
Other
organic fertilizer after planting, Fertilizer in the Drip System on the roots
Weed management (see our following lessons 6.51 and more)
• Annual and perennial grasses Apply post emergence to
young and actively growing weeds, CHOP AND DROP SYSTEM make mulch and plant
garlic and onions between .
• Broad leaves and annual grasses
Pests
• Cut worm/ Carbaryl, Dursban, Pyrinex, Karate
• Aphids/ Dimethoate, Metasystox 25/ EC, Malathion 50%
• African Bollworm/ Thionex 35 EC, Dedevap, Tamaron
600 SL, Carbaryl, Dipterex 95 SP
• Red spider mite/ Malathion, Dimethoate 40 EC, Mitac,
Armitraz 20 EC, Kelthane 18 EC, Dicofol
• Leaf miners/ Tamaron, Trigard
• Whitefly/ Confidor, Naturell, DDVP Diseases
• Bacterial canker/ It is controlled by using healthy
seeds, planting on ridges and the use of crop rotation.
• Bacterial wilt/ Use crop rotation and avoid use of
areas prone to water logging.
• Bacterial spot/ Healthy seed , crop rotation and
Copper oxychloride, Mancozeb, Captan and Metiram
• Bacterial speck/ Use certified disease free seed
Copper oxychloride and Mancozeb
• Early blight/ Copper oxychloride and Mancozeb,
Ridomil, Maneb, Bravo
• Late blight/ Copper oxychloride and Mancozeb,
Ridomil, Maneb, Bravo, Captan
• Tomato mosaic virus/ spotted wilt virus/ yellow leaf
curl virus/ Use resistant cultivars, Control vectors, Practice good hygiene,
Rogue out and destroy infected
Tips
→ For any crop, always research and secure a market
before investing in production. This ensures a sustainable farm business
operation that is market driven. Answers to the following questions are
important: Who will buy? At what price? Where? Who will provide transport? Are
there any hidden costs of selling? Can I add value to my produce? How can I
best package and sell my produce?
→ Get trained on production and business. The training
should cover; land preparation, varieties, fertilizer requirements, management
(record keeping,
accounting, marketing), pests and diseases, possible
problems and solutions, harvesting, storage and transportation.
→ Soil quality and water available are key to
successful production. Take soils for analysis and ensure you have a reliable
water source.
→ Visit successful and unsuccessful farms for learning
→ Subscribe to local farmers’ magazines and research more
on tomato production business management.
→ For large operations, hire an Agribusiness Consultant
to assist you
KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI
NYANYA 6 – 6.50 - MWONGOZO WA UZALISHAJI hekta 1
Tarehe za kupanda
• Mwaka mzima katika maeneo yasiyo na baridi au chafu
Siku za Kuvuna • Siku 80 hadi 120 Inategemea aina ya mimea
Muda wa kuvuna • Siku 60
Mavuno • Kilo 20 000 - 60 000 kwa hekta.
Mahitaji ya udongo • pH 5.0 hadi 5.5, • Udongo tifutifu wa kichanga, •
Upimaji wa udongo ni muhimu
Kitanda cha mbegu
• 120– 160 g kwenye kitalu cha mbegu cha takriban 60 m2
• Kuibuka kwa siku 7 - 10
• Treni za mbegu zinazoelea pia zinaweza kutumika
• Hakikisha mifereji ya maji bila malipo ili kuepuka unyevu
1. Kupandikiza
• Wiki 6 - 8 baada ya kuibuka
• Imarisha miche inapokuwa na majani 3-5 halisi
2. Kupandikiza
Labda pandikiza mara ya pili na panda tena chini hadi kwenye jani la
kwanza.
Nyanya na viazi ndio mimea pekee ambayo itakua mizizi ya upande wakati
shina kuu limefunikwa kwenye udongo. Mizizi inaweza kuwa katika sufuria ya
plastiki 5 l hadi 20 hadi 20 cm.
Nafasi
• Safu-mlalo: 300 - 500mm
• Mstari kati ya safu mlalo: 1000 - 1500mm Mstari wa matone kati ya safu
zote mbili.
Mahitaji ya mbolea
Kinyesi cha asili r mboji nzuri ardhini hulia 30x30x30 cm karibu miezi 2
kabla ya kupanda. Funika na ardhi.
Mbolea nyingine ya kikaboni baada ya kupanda, Mbolea kwenye mfumo wa
matone kwenye mizizi
Udhibiti wa magugu (tazama masomo yetu yafuatayo 6.51 na zaidi)
• Nyasi za kila mwaka na za kudumu Weka magugu machanga na yanayoota kwa
wingi, KATA NA KUANGUSHA MFUMO tengeneza matandazo na panda vitunguu saumu na
vitunguu kati ya .
• Majani mapana na nyasi za kila
mwaka
Wadudu
• Cut worm/ Carbaryl, Dursban, Pyrinex, Karate
• Vidukari/ Dimethoate, Metasystox 25/ EC, Malathion 50%
• African Bollworm/ Thionex 35 EC, Dedevap, Tamaron 600 SL, Carbaryl,
Dipterex 95 SP
• Red spider mite/ Malathion, Dimethoate 40 EC, Mitac, Armitraz 20 EC,
Kelthane 18 EC,
Dicofol
• Wachimbaji wa majani/ Tamaron, Trigard
• Whitefly/ Confidor, Naturell, DDVP Magonjwa
• Bacterial canker/ Hudhibitiwa kwa kutumia mbegu zenye afya, kupanda
kwenye matuta na kutumia mzunguko wa mazao.
• Mnyauko bakteria/ Tumia mzunguko wa mazao na epuka matumizi ya maeneo
yenye ukataji wa maji.
• Maeneo ya bakteria/ Mbegu yenye afya, mzunguko wa mazao na oksikloridi
ya Shaba,
Mancozeb, Captan na Metiram
• Madoa ya bakteria/ Tumia oksikloridi ya shaba na Mancozeb
iliyothibitishwa.
• Ukungu wa mapema/ Oksikloridi ya Shaba na Mancozeb, Ridomil, Maneb,
Bravo
• Blight ya kuchelewa/ Oksikloridi
ya Shaba na Mancozeb, Ridomil, Maneb, Bravo, Captan
• Tomato mosaic virus/ spotted wilt
virus/ yellow leaf curl virus/ Tumia mimea sugu, Dhibiti vienezaji, Fanya
usafi, Zuia na uharibu walioambukizwa.
Vidokezo
→ Kwa zao lolote, daima tafiti na
kupata soko kabla ya kuwekeza katika uzalishaji. Hii inahakikisha uendeshaji
endelevu wa biashara ya shamba unaoendeshwa na soko. Majibu ya maswali
yafuatayo ni muhimu: Nani atanunua? Kwa bei gani? Wapi? Nani atatoa usafiri?
Je, kuna gharama zozote zilizofichwa za kuuza? Je, ninaweza kuongeza thamani ya
mazao yangu? Je, ninawezaje kufunga na kuuza mazao yangu vizuri zaidi?
→ Pata mafunzo ya uzalishaji na
biashara. Mafunzo yanapaswa kujumuisha; maandalizi ya ardhi, aina, mahitaji ya
mbolea, usimamizi (kutunza kumbukumbu,
uhasibu, masoko), wadudu na
magonjwa, matatizo na ufumbuzi unaowezekana, uvunaji, uhifadhi na usafirishaji.
→ Ubora wa udongo na maji
yanayopatikana ni muhimu kwa uzalishaji wenye mafanikio. Chukua udongo kwa
uchunguzi na hakikisha una chanzo cha maji cha uhakika.
→ Tembelea mashamba yenye mafanikio
na yasiyo na mafanikio kwa ajili ya kujifunza
→ Jiandikishe kwa majarida ya
wakulima wa ndani na utafiti zaidi juu ya usimamizi wa biashara ya uzalishaji
wa nyanya.
→ Kwa shughuli kubwa, ajiri Mshauri
wa Biashara ya Kilimo ili kukusaidia
ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY
6 TOMATOES – 6.51 - PRODUCE GREAT ROOTS BEFORE PLANTING OUT
The problem of all tomatoes
growers is that they do not create big roots. Tomatoes and potatoes are the
only plant which grows roots, to the side of the steam, so in the phase of
nursery you must transplant potatoes 2 times in bigger pots until the roots are
20 to 20 cm. than you plant them in the garden. Transplant and set deeper until
the first leaves and again until the first leaves and at best give water from a
basin on the feet.
The other problem is the disease,
I see it all day in the farming groups here. You need repellant plants against
the insects and wilt, destroy them with repel plants. Plant garlic and onions and
others around and beside the tomatoes and make the insects confuse.
Farming is more as only to set a
plant in the earth and give water. learn more
…
KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI
NYANYA 6 – 6.51 – ZAA MIZIZI MIKUBWA KABLA YA KUPANDA
Tatizo la wakulima wote wa nyanya ni kwamba hawana kuunda mizizi kubwa.
Nyanya na viazi ni mmea pekee unaokua mizizi, kwa upande wa mvuke, hivyo katika
awamu ya kitalu lazima kupandikiza viazi mara 2 kwenye sufuria kubwa hadi
mizizi ni 20 hadi 20 cm. kuliko kuwapanda bustanini. Pandikiza na kuweka ndani
zaidi hadi majani ya kwanza na tena mpaka majani ya kwanza na bora kutoa maji
kutoka bonde kwenye miguu.
Tatizo lingine ni ugonjwa, nauona siku zote kwenye vikundi vya wakulima
hapa. Unahitaji fukuza mimea dhidi ya wadudu na kunyauka, uwaangamize na mimea
ya kufukuza. Panda vitunguu saumu na vitunguu na vingine karibu na kando ya
nyanya na kufanya wadudu kuchanganyikiwa.
Kilimo ni zaidi ya kuweka mmea
ardhini na kutoa maji. Jifunze
zaidi …
ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY
6 TOMATOES – 6.52
- VARIETIES IN EAST
AFRICA
Tri-Borders Green Farmers Mandera County
Tomato Varieties and their
yields in Kenya
There are categories of tomato
varieties, namely determinate and indeterminate.
Determinate tomato varieties
grow to a standard height of about 1metre. They stop growing when fruit starts
forming on the top bud. The fruit from the plant ripens at approximately the
same period (usually 7-14days). They stand on their own hence do not require
staking for support.
Indeterminate tomatoes
continue growing and producing fruits until it withers due to environmental
factors such as drought and frost. This variety reaches heights of up to
2metres. Indeterminate will flower, set new fruit and ripen fruit all at the
same time throughout the season. They require substantial staking for support.
Some of the common varieties
of tomatoes grown in Kenya include;
Rio Grande-
This is a determinate variety
that does very well in warm climates. It is a very popular tomato with rich
deep red and sweet-tasting fruits. Some of the attributes Rio Grande variety
holds include :
It can yield up to 18tonnes
per acre
The Rio Grande matures in
between 75–85 days.
It is tolerant to verticillium
and fusarium wilt.
Assila F1-
This is a determinate variety
that produces red coloured fruits with an oval shape and is known to be sweet.
Other characteristics attributed to Assila F1 include;
Assila F1
is an early maturing variety taking 75days to mature
after transplanting.
It is tolerant to Tomato
Yellow Leaf Curl Virus and nematodes.
This variety can yield up to
23tonnes per acre.
It can be stored well and
transported without much damage.
Kilele f1 –
This is a determinate variety
suitable for growing in the drier or humid regions. Some of its attributes
include;
This variety is tolerant to
diseases such as Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus, Tomato Mosaic Virus,
Verticillium, Fusarium Wilt, and Nematodes.
It matures in 75-85days after
transplanting.
Kilele F1 can yield up to
35tonnes per acre.
Its fruit is firm and
elongated. The fruit has a 21day shelf life, thereby giving you adequate time
to seek its market.
Cal j –
this is a determinate variety
that is open-pollinated. It produces red, blocky shaped fruits. Some of the
other attributes of this variety include;
It matures in about 75–85 days
after transplanting.
This variety has the potential
to yield up to 12tonnes per acre
Cal J is also known for its
easy transportability to the market
Anna F1-
Anna F1 falls in the category
of indeterminate. It does well in both greenhouses and the open field. Some
outstanding attributes for this variety include;
This variety matures in
75days.
Anna F1 has a yield of about
74tonnes per acre. It can yield up to 35kgs of tomatoes per plant
Anna f1's fruit is deep red,
firm, and has an oval shape.
This variety has a high
resistance to Alternaria stem canker, Verticillium, Fusarium wilt as well as
nematodes.
Prostar F1 –
Prostar F1 is a hybrid
indeterminate variety that does well in warm climates. It can be grown both
outdoors or in a greenhouse. Some of its attributes include;
It takes between 80-85days to
mature.
It can yield up to 180tonnes
per acre.
This variety is tolerant to
Leaf Curl Virus and Bacterial Wilt.
It has a long harvesting
period and excellent keeping quality.
The choice of the variety that
you should plant should be based on several factors that include;
The variety's disease
resistance capability. Some varieties are resistant to diseases such as
fusarium wilt and nematodes.
Whether the variety is hybrid
or the open-pollinated one. Hybrid varieties give higher yields but are costly
in terms of the cost of seeds.
Depending on your farm, you
should also consider whether the variety is determinate, indeterminate, or
semi-determinate. Indeterminate varieties will raise your costs of materials
and labour as you will be required to build the supports for the plants.
Also, the fruit type in terms
of shape, size, and colour. The fruit type is determined by market needs,
whether it is processing or market buyers.
KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI
NYANYA 6 – 6.52 - AINA AINA ZA
AFRIKA MASHARIKI
Wakulima wa Kijani wa Mipaka
Mitatu Kaunti ya Mandera
Aina za Nyanya na mazao yake
nchini Kenya
Kuna aina za aina za nyanya,
ambazo ni determinate na indeterminate.
Aina za nyanya zilizobainishwa
hukua hadi urefu wa kawaida wa takriban mita 1. Huacha kukua matunda yanapoanza
kuota kwenye bud ya juu. Matunda kutoka kwa mmea hukomaa kwa takriban kipindi
sawa (kawaida siku 7-14). Wanajisimamia wenyewe kwa hivyo hawahitaji stacking
kwa msaada.
Nyanya zisizo na kipimo
huendelea kukua na kutoa matunda hadi kunyauka kwa sababu ya mazingira kama
vile ukame na baridi. Aina hii hufikia urefu wa hadi mita 2. Indeterminate
itachanua, kuweka matunda mapya na kuiva matunda yote kwa wakati mmoja katika msimu
mzima. Wanahitaji hisa kubwa kwa msaada.
Baadhi ya aina za kawaida za
nyanya zinazolimwa nchini Kenya ni pamoja na;
Rio Grande-
Hii ni aina ya kuamua ambayo
hufanya vizuri sana katika hali ya hewa ya joto. Ni nyanya maarufu sana yenye
matunda mengi mekundu na yenye ladha tamu. Baadhi ya sifa ambazo aina ya Rio
Grande inashikilia ni pamoja na:
Inaweza kutoa hadi tani 18 kwa
ekari
Rio Grande hukomaa kati ya siku
75-85.
Inastahimili wilt ya
verticillium na fusarium.
Assila F1-
Hii ni aina ya kuamua ambayo
hutoa matunda ya rangi nyekundu yenye umbo la mviringo na inajulikana kuwa
tamu. Sifa nyingine zinazohusishwa na Assila F1 ni pamoja na;
Asila F1
ni aina inayokomaa mapema inayochukua siku 75
kukomaa baada ya kupandikiza.
Inastahimili Virusi vya Nyanya
ya Manjano ya Kukunja na nematodi.
Aina hii inaweza kutoa hadi
tani 23 kwa ekari.
Inaweza kuhifadhiwa vizuri na
kusafirishwa bila uharibifu mkubwa.
Kilele f1 -
Hii ni aina maalum inayofaa kwa
kukua katika maeneo kavu au yenye unyevunyevu. Baadhi ya sifa zake ni pamoja
na;
Aina hii hustahimili magonjwa
kama vile Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus, Tomato Mosaic Virus, Verticillium,
Fusarium Wilt, na Nematodes.
Inakomaa katika siku 75-85
baada ya kupandikiza.
Kilele F1 inaweza kutoa hadi
tani 35 kwa ekari.
Matunda yake ni madhubuti na
marefu. Matunda yana maisha ya rafu ya siku 21, na hivyo kukupa wakati wa
kutosha kutafuta soko lake.
Cal j -
hii ni aina bainifu ambayo
inachavushwa wazi. Inazalisha matunda nyekundu, yenye umbo la kuzuia. Baadhi ya
sifa nyingine za aina hii ni pamoja na;
Hukomaa takribani siku 75-85
baada ya kupandikizwa.
Aina hii ina uwezo wa kutoa
hadi tani 12 kwa ekari
Cal J pia inajulikana kwa
usafirishaji wake rahisi hadi sokoni
Anna F1-
Anna F1 iko katika jamii
isiyojulikana. Inafanya vizuri katika greenhouses zote mbili na uwanja wazi.
Baadhi ya sifa bora za aina hii ni pamoja na;
Aina hii hukomaa kwa siku 75.
Anna F1 ina mavuno ya takriban
tani 74 kwa ekari. Inaweza kutoa hadi kilo 35 za nyanya kwa kila mmea
Tunda la Anna f1 ni jekundu
sana, thabiti, na lina umbo la mviringo.
Aina hii ina ukinzani mkubwa wa
ugonjwa wa Alternaria stem canker, Verticillium, Fusarium wilt pamoja na
nematodes.
Prostar F1 -
Prostar F1 ni aina ya mseto
isiyojulikana ambayo hufanya vizuri katika hali ya hewa ya joto. Inaweza
kupandwa wote nje au katika chafu. Baadhi ya sifa zake ni pamoja na;
Inachukua kati ya siku 80-85
kukomaa.
Inaweza kutoa hadi tani 180 kwa
ekari.
Aina hii inastahimili Virusi
vya Curl ya Leaf na Bacterial Wilt.
Ina kipindi kirefu cha uvunaji
na ubora bora wa kutunza.
Uchaguzi wa aina ambayo
unapaswa kupanda inapaswa kuzingatia mambo kadhaa ambayo ni pamoja na;
Uwezo wa kupinga magonjwa ya
aina mbalimbali. Baadhi ya aina hustahimili magonjwa kama vile fusarium wilt na
nematodes.
Ikiwa aina ni mseto au ile
iliyochavushwa wazi. Aina mseto hutoa mavuno mengi lakini ni ghali kulingana na
gharama ya mbegu.
Kulingana na shamba lako,
unapaswa pia kuzingatia ikiwa aina ni ya kuamua, isiyo na kipimo, au
nusu-determinate. Aina zisizo na kipimo zitapandisha gharama zako za vifaa na
kazi kwani utahitajika kujenga viunzi vya mimea.
Pia, aina ya matunda kulingana
na sura, saizi na rangi. Aina ya matunda huamuliwa na mahitaji ya soko, iwe ni
usindikaji au wanunuzi wa soko.
ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY
6 TOMATOES - 6.53 - PEPPERS HEALTHIER WITH EPSOM SALT
Have you ever tried Epsom Salt in your Garden?
You can use it as a soil amendment before seeding to give your garden a
powerful boost from the start. Magnesium aids in seed germination and helps to
strengthen cell walls, leading to more and stronger seedlings. For best
results, use 1 cup of salt per 100 square feet of tilled soil or mix 1 – 2
tablespoons into the soil at the bottom of each hole before dropping in seeds.
Tomatoes
Should be fed Epsom salt twice as often as other
plants. Also, because tomato vines are prone to calcium-deficiency (blossom end
rot), the majority of tomato fertilizers contain calcium which will compete
with magnesium for root absorption. Therefore, foliar feeding is the more
efficient method for delivering magnesium to these plants. Water tomato vines
with dissolved Epsom salt – 2 tablespoons per gallon of water, every 2 weeks.
Peppers are another popular garden plant with a
higher-than average fruit to plant size ratio. Because of this, they should
also be fed magnesium every two weeks to achieve higher yields of larger
fruits. For hot peppers, over-watering can lead to fruit with less heat, thus
the soil amendment method may be preferable in this case. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon
of Epsom salt for every foot of height around the drip line of your pepper
plants once per week.
Plants that aren’t getting enough magnesium can be
identified by their yellowing leaves. This is because magnesium is an essential
component in the production of chlorophyll. Sprinkle Epsom salt around your
plants to achieve healthier foliage. About 1 tablespoon per 12 inches of height
once a month will benefit the plants in your vegetable garden, as well as any
trees, shrubs, flowers and grasses you want to green up.
Leaf curling may also be caused by magnesium-deficiency in
plants. Again, add Epsom salt to the soil around the base of the sick plant.
Alternately, for faster absorption you can mix 2 tablespoons of Epsom salt in a
gallon of water and apply directly to the leaves.
Have you ever wondered why your neighbours’ rose
bushes are fuller than yours and sport so many more blossoms? It is highly
likely that the answer is Epsom salt. And of course, Epsom salt increases
chlorophyll production meaning darker leaves.
You really can't use too much Epsom salt in your
garden. Magnesium sulphate is pH neutral, so it won’t harm your soil. The
crystals break down into water, magnesium, and sulfur – three components which
are beneficial in some way to most plants. Epsom salt is safe, easy to apply,
and works fast to correct a variety of problems and increase the overall health
of your garden. As if that weren’t enough, Epsom salt is also inexpensive
making it one of the most perfect tools for the health-conscious, responsible gardener.
KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI
NYANYA 6 - 6.53 PILIPILI ZENYE AFYA YENYE CHUMVI YA EPSOM
Je, umewahi kujaribu Epsom Salt kwenye Bustani yako? Unaweza kuitumia
kama marekebisho ya udongo kabla ya kupanda ili kuipa bustani yako uimara wa
nguvu tangu mwanzo. Magnésiamu husaidia katika kuota kwa mbegu na husaidia
kuimarisha kuta za seli, na kusababisha miche zaidi na yenye nguvu. Kwa matokeo
bora, tumia kikombe 1 cha chumvi kwa kila futi 100 za mraba za udongo uliolimwa
au changanya vijiko 1 - 2 kwenye udongo chini ya kila shimo kabla ya kudondosha
mbegu.
Nyanya
Inapaswa kulishwa chumvi ya Epsom mara mbili kuliko mimea mingine. Pia,
kwa sababu mizabibu ya nyanya inakabiliwa na upungufu wa kalsiamu (kuoza mwisho
wa maua), mbolea nyingi za nyanya zina kalsiamu ambayo itashindana na
magnesiamu kwa kunyonya mizizi. Kwa hivyo, kulisha majani ndio njia bora zaidi
ya kusambaza magnesiamu kwa mimea hii. Maji ya mizabibu ya nyanya na chumvi ya
Epsom iliyoyeyushwa - vijiko 2 kwa lita moja ya maji, kila wiki 2.
Pilipili ni mmea mwingine maarufu wa bustani wenye uwiano wa juu kuliko
wastani wa matunda kwa saizi ya mmea. Kwa sababu hii, wanapaswa pia kulishwa
magnesiamu kila baada ya wiki mbili ili kufikia mavuno ya juu ya matunda
makubwa. Kwa pilipili hoho, kumwagilia kupita kiasi kunaweza kusababisha
matunda yenye joto kidogo, kwa hivyo njia ya kurekebisha udongo inaweza kuwa
bora katika kesi hii. Nyunyiza kijiko 1 kikubwa cha chumvi ya Epsom kwa kila
futi ya urefu karibu na njia ya matone ya mimea yako ya pilipili mara moja kwa
wiki.
Mimea ambayo haipati magnesiamu ya kutosha inaweza kutambuliwa na majani
yao ya njano. Hii ni kwa sababu magnesiamu ni sehemu muhimu katika utengenezaji
wa klorofili. Nyunyiza chumvi ya Epsom kuzunguka mimea yako ili kupata majani
yenye afya. Takriban kijiko 1 cha chakula kwa kila inchi 12 za urefu mara moja
kwa mwezi kitafaidi mimea kwenye bustani yako ya mboga, pamoja na miti,
vichaka, maua na nyasi zozote unazotaka kuweka kijani kibichi.
Kukunja kwa majani kunaweza pia kusababishwa na upungufu wa magnesiamu
katika mimea. Tena, ongeza chumvi ya Epsom kwenye udongo karibu na msingi wa
mmea mgonjwa. Vinginevyo, kwa kunyonya haraka unaweza kuchanganya vijiko 2 vya
chumvi ya Epsom kwenye galoni ya maji na kuomba moja kwa moja kwenye majani.
Umewahi kujiuliza kwa nini vichaka vya waridi vya majirani zako vimejaa
zaidi kuliko yako na huchanua maua mengi zaidi? Kuna uwezekano mkubwa kuwa jibu
ni chumvi ya Epsom. Na bila shaka, chumvi ya Epsom huongeza uzalishaji wa
klorofili ikimaanisha majani meusi zaidi.
Kwa kweli huwezi kutumia chumvi nyingi ya Epsom kwenye bustani yako.
Sulfate ya magnesiamu haina pH neutral, kwa hivyo haitadhuru udongo wako.
Fuwele huvunjika na kuwa maji, magnesiamu, na salfa - vipengele vitatu ambavyo
vina manufaa kwa namna fulani kwa mimea mingi. Chumvi ya Epsom ni salama, ni
rahisi kutumia, na hufanya kazi haraka kurekebisha matatizo mbalimbali na
kuongeza afya kwa ujumla ya bustani yako. Kana kwamba hiyo haitoshi, chumvi ya
Epsom pia ni ya bei nafuu na kuifanya kuwa mojawapo ya zana bora zaidi kwa
mtunza bustani anayejali afya, anayewajibika.
ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY
6 TOMATOES – 6.54 – NEVER KNEW THIS
On transplanting the tomatoes,
they should be driven about a foot into the soil, three to five inches away
from the plant, placed so as to minimize any root damage, maximize root growth
and mitigate wind blows.
KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI
6 SOMO LA 6.54 NYANYA – 6.54 – HAKUJAJUA HILI
Wakati wa kupandikiza nyanya, zinapaswa kuendeshwa kwa futi moja kwenye
udongo, inchi tatu hadi tano kutoka kwenye mmea, zimewekwa ili kupunguza
uharibifu wowote wa mizizi, kuongeza ukuaji wa mizizi na kupunguza upepo wa
upepo.
ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY
6 TOMATOES – 6.57 - AILMENTS AND FIXES
FOR THEM
Many of you have started your Tomatoes inside,
and already planted them in the Garden, or almost ready to. For the ones that
had them in the Garden, If you had any issues with your tomatoes the last year
or two, then this info and chart will be helpful. It is important to be able to
identify and treat the common Tomato plant ailments that might crop up.
1)BLOSSOM END ROT
This is one of the most common ailments, and you
can tell if your plants have it by looking at where Tomatoes attach to vine. If
the attachment appears brown and leathery between the size of a dime and
quarter, then that Tomato has Blossom End Rot.
TO TREAT
You will have to take all the Tomatoes off the
plants that are affected and dispose of them. If you don't, it will spread and
to all of them. Calcium is required in relatively large concentrations for
normal cell growth. When a rapidly growing fruit is deprived of calcium, the
tissues break down, leaving the characteristic lesion at the blossom end.
Blossom-end rot develops when the fruit's demand for calcium exceeds the supply
in the soil. This may result from low calcium levels in the soil, drought
stress, excessive soil moisture, and/or fluctuations due to rain or over
watering. Lime (unless the soil is already alkaline), composted manures or bone
meal will supply calcium.
2) BLIGHT
There are 3 stages of Blight. Early Blight is
black and grey spots on the leaves when Tomatoes are young. Southern Blight is
black and grey spots by stem and roots of the tomato plant. Late Blight gets
out of hand, and is black and grey spots throughout the leaves, vines, and
tomatoes.
TO TREAT
The easiest way is to treat it in it's early
stages by removing the parts of the Tomato plants that are infected. If you do
not notice it until the later stages of Blight, you will need to buy an
anti-fungal treatment, or you can make an organic one from home.
3) CATERPILLARS
They love to feed on Tomato plants and should be
taken care of right away.
TO TREAT
There are many treatments available to fight
against caterpillar infestations at your local garden store, but you can make
your own safe organic remedies at home. An Apple Cider Vinegar spray can be
used to keep them away. You can also plant French Marigolds by your Tomatoes to help deter from
coming around.
4) FRUIT SPLITTING
This can occur when it is dry, and then you get
some heavy rains, or most frequently when there is sudden growth in the tomato
plant. It doesn't hurt the Tomatoes, or affect you eating them, they just don't
look good after that.
TO TREAT-
If it occurs early in the Tomato plants growth
phase, it can be reversed. Just water and apply nutrients, as normal, so
there's no too dry too wet cycle. If it happens near harvest, it can't be
reversed.
5) RED SPIDER MITES
They are hard to spot, and usually are under
your leaves. If you notice cobwebs on your Tomato plants, then you have them.
TO TREAT
You can always buy treatments at the store to
take care of them, but better to make your own organic Apple Cider Vinegar
spray, soap spray, or Onion and Garlic spray. Coriander, Dill, and
Chrysanthemums are good to plant to deter them.
6) WILT
It is a fungal infection that starts in the
roots, and blocks most of the water and nutrients from getting to the plant. It
usually causes no problems until Tomatoes are growing on the vines. You will
first see yellowing and drying of lower leaves, and then whole plant will wilt
during hottest period of day. It will recover some at night, but then wilt
again next day.
TO TREAT--There really is no treatment when you get wilt
that I know of. It is in the soil, so the next time you grow Tomatoes, pick a
different spot in the Garden to grow them. It will deprive the Wilt of a host,
and it will die out over the next year. Grow seedlings inside in clean soil
before transplanting in Spring, and then make sure to pull all weeds that pop
up around them.
7) SUN SCORCH
The skin of your Tomatoes will looked bruised
and sunken. It sometimes happens when your Tomatoes get too much sun exposure
during a real dry and hot period.
TO TREAT
Don't do any pruning of leaves during hot
periods. The extra leaves will shield the Tomatoes. You can also use shade
cloth to cover them during these periods Once they get Sun Scorch, you cannot
do anything for the affected fruit, but you can provide shade for the
unaffected ones.
MORE INFOS and the links I will send you
when you write me on PM:
Be more successful
with AGRO-ECONOMY
COURSE
LEVEL 4: Reach 4 times more yields with irrigation and little machines.
We help you as consultant in AGRO ECONOMY. For 15% commission.
LEVEL 3: FOOD FOREST COURSE, 150
lessons Agroforestry, Syntropic,
LEVEL 2: PERMACULTURE
COURSE 140 lessons THE
STANDARD.
LEVEL 1: ORGANIC FARMING COURSE, in fb
700 lessons the BASICS of Organic Farming. Join in on
..
https:// www.facebook.com/FAIREC-Atlas-Developement-SARL-654505228040366/
In progress all lessons with crops,
herbs, and fruit in English and Swahili in my blog.
LEVEL 0: Save daily 50 % water, energy, and fertilizer
with us. See 70 lessons best
SUBSURFACE DRIP
IRRIGATION for crops and trees. Use our best T-Tape.
See INDIAN best
quality 2-Wheel Tractors and weeders in 420 and 600 mm width.
Find my lessons in
the following hashtags:
#organicfarmer
#organic #organicfarmingpractices #organicfarming #organicfarm #foodforest
#syntropic #agroecology #syntropicfarming #agroeconomy
#introductiontopermaculture #permacultureprinciples #creativethinking #permaculturehomesteading #regenerativefuture #Ubuntu #United4Land
KOZI
YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI
NYANYA
6 – 6.57 - MARADHI NA MADHUBUTI KWAO
Wengi
wenu mmeanzisha Nyanya zenu ndani, na tayari mmezipanda kwenye Bustani, au
karibu tayari. Kwa wale waliokuwa nazo kwenye Bustani, Ikiwa ulikuwa na
matatizo yoyote na nyanya zako mwaka mmoja au miwili iliyopita, basi maelezo na
chati hii zitakusaidia. Ni muhimu kuweza kutambua na kutibu magonjwa ya kawaida
ya mmea wa Nyanya ambayo yanaweza kutokea.
1)UOZO
WA MAUA MWISHO
Hii
ni moja ya magonjwa ya kawaida, na unaweza kujua ikiwa mimea yako ina kwa
kuangalia mahali ambapo Nyanya hushikamana na mzabibu. Ikiwa kiambatisho
kinaonekana kahawia na ngozi kati ya ukubwa wa dime na robo, basi Nyanya hiyo
ina Blossom End Rot.
KUTIBU
Utalazimika
kuchukua Nyanya zote kutoka kwa mimea iliyoathiriwa na kuitupa. Ikiwa hutafanya
hivyo, itaenea na kwa wote. Kalsiamu inahitajika katika viwango
vikubwa kwa ukuaji wa kawaida wa seli. Wakati matunda yanayokua kwa kasi
yanaponyimwa kalsiamu, tishu huvunjika, na kuacha lesion ya tabia mwishoni mwa
maua. Uozo wa mwisho wa maua hukua wakati mahitaji ya tunda ya kalsiamu
yanapozidi ugavi kwenye udongo. Hii inaweza kutokana na viwango vya chini vya
kalsiamu kwenye udongo, dhiki ya ukame, unyevu kupita kiasi wa udongo, na/au
mabadiliko kutokana na mvua au kumwagilia kupita kiasi. Chokaa (isipokuwa
udongo tayari ni alkali), mbolea ya mboji au unga wa mifupa utatoa kalsiamu.
2)
MWANGAVU
Kuna
hatua 3 za Blight. Early Blight ni madoa meusi na ya kijivu kwenye majani
wakati Nyanya ni changa. Southern Blight ni madoa meusi na ya kijivu kwa shina
na mizizi ya mmea wa nyanya. Late Blight hutoka mkononi, na huwa na madoa meusi
na ya kijivu kwenye majani, mizabibu na nyanya.
KUTIBU
Njia
rahisi ni kutibu katika hatua za mwanzo kwa kuondoa sehemu za mimea ya Nyanya
iliyoambukizwa. Usipoitambua hadi hatua za baadaye za Blight, utahitaji kununua
matibabu ya kuzuia ukungu, au unaweza kutengeneza ya kikaboni kutoka nyumbani.
3)
MIWAVI
Wanapenda
kulisha mimea ya Nyanya na wanapaswa kutunzwa mara moja.
KUTIBU
Kuna
matibabu mengi yanayopatikana ili kupigana na viwavi kwenye duka lako la
bustani, lakini unaweza kutengeneza dawa zako salama za kikaboni nyumbani. Dawa
ya Siki ya Apple inaweza kutumika kuwazuia. Unaweza pia kupanda Marigolds ya
Kifaransa karibu na Nyanya yako ili kuzuia kuja karibu.
4)
KUPASUKA MATUNDA
Hii
inaweza kutokea wakati ni kavu, na kisha kupata baadhi ya mvua kubwa, au mara
nyingi zaidi wakati kuna ukuaji wa ghafla katika kupanda nyanya. Haidhuru
Nyanya, au kuathiri kuzila, hazionekani vizuri baada ya hapo.
KUTIBU-
Ikiwa
hutokea mapema katika awamu ya ukuaji wa mimea ya Nyanya, inaweza kuachwa. Maji
tu na uweke virutubishi, kama kawaida, kwa hivyo hakuna mzunguko wa mvua sana.
Ikitokea karibu na mavuno, haiwezi kubadilishwa.
5)
MITI NYEKUNDU
Wao
ni vigumu kuona, na kwa kawaida ni chini ya majani yako. Ikiwa unaona cobwebs
kwenye mimea yako ya Nyanya, basi unayo.
KUTIBU
Unaweza
kununua dawa dukani kila wakati ili kuzitunza, lakini ni bora zaidi kutengeneza
dawa yako ya kikaboni ya Siki ya Apple, dawa ya sabuni, au kitunguu na kitunguu
saumu. Coriander, Dill, na Chrysanthemums ni nzuri kupanda ili kuwazuia.
6)
WILT
Ni
ugonjwa wa fangasi unaoanzia kwenye mizizi, na kuzuia maji mengi na virutubisho
kuingia kwenye mmea. Kawaida husababisha shida hadi Nyanya zinakua kwenye
mizabibu. Kwanza utaona njano na kukauka kwa majani ya chini, na kisha mmea
mzima utanyauka wakati wa joto zaidi wa siku. Itapona usiku, lakini itanyauka
tena siku inayofuata.
KUTIBU--Kweli
hakuna matibabu unapopata mnyauko ninaoujua. Iko kwenye udongo, kwa hivyo
wakati ujao unapopanda Nyanya, chagua sehemu tofauti kwenye bustani ili kukua.
Itanyima Wilt ya mwenyeji, na itakufa katika mwaka ujao. Panda miche ndani
kwenye udongo safi kabla ya kupandikiza katika Majira ya kuchipua, na kisha
hakikisha kwamba umeng'oa magugu yote yanayotokea karibu nayo.
7)
KUCHOMA JUA
Ngozi
ya Nyanya zako itaonekana kuwa na michubuko na imezama. Wakati mwingine hutokea
wakati Nyanya zako hupata mionzi ya jua sana wakati wa kipindi cha ukame na
joto.
KUTIBU
Usikate
majani wakati wa joto. Majani ya ziada yatalinda Nyanya. Unaweza pia kutumia
kitambaa cha kivuli kuwafunika katika vipindi hivi Mara tu wanapopata Mwanguko
wa Jua, huwezi kufanya chochote kwa matunda yaliyoathirika, lakini unaweza
kutoa kivuli kwa wale ambao hawajaathirika.
