ORGANICFARMINGCOURSE AGRO-ECONOMY 6 SWISS CHARD –6.106 - GROWING and SOIL
Costs:The cost of production includes expenses for seeds,
water, fertilizers, and labor. On
average, you might spend around KES 106,700per Acre. Growing Conditions:Swiss
chard requires fertile soil and regular watering. It can be grown directly from
seeds or started in a nursery bed before transplanting. How to Grow Swiss Chard Growing Zones Swiss Chard grows well in zones 2-10. It’s a great cold weather plant
that also tolerates sunny, warm weather. Sun Requirements Swiss Chard likes full sun but will tolerate partial shade. I find that
if the weather is cooler, full sun is best. Soil Requirements Swiss Chard likes fertile, well-composted soil that has good drainage.
If your soil is particularly poor, apply a well-balanced fertilizer a week
before planting. Chard prefers pH between 6.0-6.5. When to Plant Plant your seeds about 2-3 weeks before the last frost date. Continue to
plant a handful of seeds every 10 days or so for the first month to ensure you
have a continuous supply. You can also plant a crop in the fall 40 days before
the first frost date. Container Planting Swiss chard grows well in containers, and the benefit is you can place
the pot near your kitchen for a quick harvest. Use a good quality container
soil mix and slow-release fertilizer specifically for potted plants. Germinating Seeds You can sow the seeds into the garden or individual pots. Plant seeds in
the garden about a half inch deep. Spacing Plant rows about 18 inches apart because if all goes well, your Swiss
chard will grow big and you’ll need plenty of airflow to help keep disease at
bay. Caring for Swiss Chard Fertilizer Give Swiss chard a side-dressing of well-rotted compost or manure
mid-season. You don’t want to apply too much fertilizer to these plants. With
Swiss chard, bigger is not always better because some varieties will lose flavour
if the leaves get too big. You want to go for deep, bright colour and good
condition rather than size. Water Consistent watering is key for Swiss chard. When the weather is hot it
will appreciate a good soak, at least 1-2 inches per week. Water the soil
around the base of the plant, not the leaves to avoid scorching in the hot sun
and you don’t want to encourage disease. Mulching Give plants a layer of mulch to help conserve water, particularly in hot
areas. Common Problems and Solutions for Growing Swiss Chard Like most leafy greens, insects love Swiss chard. It can also be
susceptible to various diseases and problems. Good soil and garden maintenance
will prevent a lot of issues.
planting
requirements 1. When planting
Swiss chard, choose a location that will receive partial to full sun exposure
and plant once the soil is at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit. It's not necessary
to add fertilizer at this point, but you can incorporate about 2 inches of
organic matter into the planting area if you prefer. You can grow Swiss chard
from seed or as transplants. Plant the seeds about 1 inch deep and about 2 to 6
inches apart. For transplants, space them 6 to 12 inches apart. Once the seeds
become seedlings, thin them out to 6 to 12 inches apart. Apply a 1 or 2 inch
layer of mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture. irrigation
requirements 1. Swiss chard likes
a lot of moisture, but the soil should not be damp, as this can lead to rot and
fungal diseases. Water the plants regularly, keeping the soil moist at a depth
of 1 inch. Reduce watering in wet weather and increase in hot, dry periods.
KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI 6 MCHICHA - 6.107 - KUKUA na UDONGO Gharama: Gharama ya uzalishaji
inajumuisha gharama za mbegu, maji, mbolea na vibarua. Kwa wastani, unaweza
kutumia karibu KES 106,700 kwa Ekari. Masharti ya Kukua: Chard ya Uswisi
inahitaji udongo wenye rutuba na kumwagilia mara kwa mara. Inaweza kukuzwa moja
kwa moja kutoka kwa mbegu au kuanza kwenye kitalu kabla ya kupandikiza3. Jinsi ya Kukua Swiss Chard Kanda zinazokua Swiss Chard hukua vizuri katika kanda 2-10. Ni mmea mzuri wa hali ya hewa ya baridi ambayo pia huvumilia hali ya
hewa ya jua, ya joto. Mahitaji ya jua Swiss Chard anapenda jua lakini
atastahimili kivuli kidogo. Ninaona kuwa ikiwa hali ya hewa ni baridi, jua
kamili ni bora zaidi. Mahitaji ya udongo Swiss Chard anapenda udongo wenye
rutuba, wenye mboji vizuri ambao una mifereji ya maji. Ikiwa udongo wako ni
duni, weka mbolea iliyosawazishwa vizuri wiki moja kabla ya kupanda. Chard
anapenda pH kati ya 6.0-6.5. Wakati wa Kupanda Panda mbegu zako takriban wiki 2-3
kabla ya tarehe ya mwisho ya baridi. Endelea kupanda mbegu chache kila baada ya
siku 10 au zaidi kwa mwezi wa kwanza ili kuhakikisha kuwa una ugavi endelevu.
Unaweza pia kupanda mazao katika vuli siku 40 kabla ya tarehe ya kwanza ya
baridi. Upandaji wa Vyombo Chard ya Uswisi hukua vizuri kwenye
vyombo, na faida ni unaweza kuweka sufuria karibu na jikoni yako kwa mavuno ya
haraka. Tumia mchanganyiko wa udongo wa chombo chenye ubora mzuri na mbolea
inayotolewa polepole mahususi kwa mimea ya vyungu. Kuota Mbegu Unaweza kupanda mbegu kwenye
bustani au sufuria za kibinafsi. Panda mbegu kwenye bustani kwa kina cha inchi
nusu. Nafasi Panda safu mlalo kwa umbali wa
inchi 18 kwa sababu kila kitu kikiendelea vizuri, chard yako ya Uswisi itakua
kubwa na utahitaji mtiririko wa hewa mwingi ili kusaidia kuzuia magonjwa. Kutunza Swiss Chard Mbolea Mpe Swiss chard sehemu ya kando ya
mboji iliyooza vizuri au samadi katikati ya msimu. Hutaki kutumia mbolea nyingi
kwa mimea hii. Kwa chard ya Uswisi, kubwa sio bora kila wakati kwa sababu aina
zingine zitapoteza ladha ikiwa majani yatakuwa makubwa sana. Unataka kwenda kwa
kina, rangi mkali na hali nzuri badala ya ukubwa. Maji Kumwagilia mara kwa mara ni muhimu
kwa chard ya Uswisi. Wakati hali ya hewa ni moto itathamini loweka nzuri,
angalau inchi 1-2 kwa wiki. Mwagilia udongo karibu na msingi wa mmea, sio
majani ili kuepuka kuwaka kwenye jua kali na hutaki kuhimiza magonjwa. Kutandaza Ipe mimea safu ya matandazo ili
kusaidia kuhifadhi maji, haswa katika maeneo yenye joto. Matatizo ya Kawaida na Suluhisho za
Kukua Swiss Chard Kama mboga nyingi za majani, wadudu
hupenda chard ya Uswisi. Inaweza pia kuathiriwa na magonjwa na matatizo
mbalimbali. Utunzaji mzuri wa udongo na bustani
utazuia maswala mengi.
Harvesting: Older leaves are usually harvested first when the
plant has about eight leaves. Proper management of pests and diseases is
crucial for a good harvest. Profitability: Swiss chard farming can be quite profitable. For
example, with proper care, you can expect a yield of 10-30 tons per acre.
Selling at around KES 14
per kilogram, you could generate significant revenue. Companion Plants for Swiss Chard Try growing Swiss chard with: Tomatoes; Cabbage; Broccoli; Radish; Lettuce; Celery; Onion; Garlic; Leek
; Chives Bean; Peas. Don’t plant Swiss chard with: Cucumber, Corn, Melon, Potato How to Harvest and Use Swiss Chard Use a sharp knife and cut the large, outer leaves at the bottom of the
stalk about an inch off the ground. Don’t be tempted to rip or snap the stalk
as this can damage the plant and allow disease into it. Plants are ready 40-60
days after planting when they’re 6-8 inches tall. One of the great things about chard is you can pick the large leaves as
you need them and allow the smaller ones to grow. A few healthy plants should
last your family for the season, especially if you stagger your planting. Swiss chard is versatile and tasty. Sautee it in a little butter and
freshly ground nutmeg, add it to stews at any point in the cooking or eat it
fresh, thinly sliced in salads. Add it to pasta dishes and use it in place of
spinach. I put it in the blender with meat to make burgers and the kids have no
idea it’s in there. Have any tips for how to prepare this nutritious vegetable? Share them
in the comments. MORE INFOS and the links I will send you
when you write me on PM: Be more successful
with AGRO-ECONOMY
COURSE LEVEL 4: Reach 4 times more yields with irrigation and little machines. We help you as consultant in AGRO ECONOMY. For 15% commission. LEVEL 3:FOODFOREST COURSE, 150
lessons Agroforestry, Syntropic, LEVEL 2:PERMACULTURECOURSE 140 lessons THE
STANDARD. LEVEL 1: ORGANICFARMINGCOURSE, in fb 700 lessons the BASICS of Organic Farming. Join in on
.. https:// www.facebook.com/FAIREC-Atlas-Developement-SARL-654505228040366/ In progress all lessons with crops,
herbs, and fruit in English and Swahili in my blog. LEVEL 0:Save daily 50 % water, energy, and fertilizer
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IRRIGATION for crops and trees. Use our best T-Tape. See INDIAN best
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#organic #organicfarmingpractices #organicfarming#organicfarm#foodforest
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#introductiontopermaculture#permacultureprinciples#creativethinking#permaculturehomesteading#regenerativefuture#Ubuntu#United4Land KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI 6 SWISS CHADI – 6.107 - KUVUNA na JIKO Kuvuna: Majani ya zamani kwa kawaida huvunwa kwanza wakati mmea una majani
takriban nane. Udhibiti sahihi wa wadudu na magonjwa ni muhimu kwa mavuno
mazuri3. Faida: Kilimo cha chard cha Uswizi kinaweza kuwa na faida kubwa. Kwa mfano, kwa
uangalifu mzuri, unaweza kutarajia mavuno ya tani 10-30 kwa ekari. Kwa kuuza
karibu KES 14 kwa kila kilo, unaweza kupata mapato makubwa. Mimea Mwenza kwa Swiss Chard Jaribu kukuza chard ya Uswizi kwa: Nyanya; Kabichi; Brokoli; Figili; lettuce; Celery; Kitunguu; Kitunguu
saumu; Liki; Vitunguu vya vitunguu Maharage; Mbaazi. Usipande chard ya Uswisi na: Tango, Mahindi, Tikiti, Viazi Jinsi ya Kuvuna na Kutumia Swiss Chard Tumia kisu kikali na ukate majani makubwa, ya nje chini ya bua kwa
karibu inchi moja kutoka ardhini. Usijaribiwe kung'oa au kunyakua bua kwani hii inaweza kuharibu mmea na kuruhusu
ugonjwa kuingia ndani yake. Mimea huwa tayari siku 40-60 baada ya kupanda ikiwa
na urefu wa inchi 6-8. Mojawapo ya mambo mazuri kuhusu chard ni kwamba unaweza kuchukua
majani makubwa kama unavyohitaji na kuruhusu yale madogo kukua. Mimea michache
yenye afya inapaswa kudumu familia yako kwa msimu, hasa ikiwa unasumbua
upandaji wako. Chard ya Uswizi ni ya aina nyingi na ya kitamu. Pika katika siagi
kidogo na nutmeg iliyosagwa, uiongeze kwenye kitoweo wakati wowote wa kupikia
au uile safi, iliyokatwa nyembamba kwenye saladi. Ongeza kwenye sahani za pasta
na uitumie badala ya mchicha. Ninaiweka kwenye blender na nyama ili kutengeneza burgers na watoto
hawajui kuwa iko huko. Je! una vidokezo vya jinsi ya kuandaa mboga hii yenye lishe? Shiriki nao kwenye maoni.
Aphids It seems like
aphids attack just about every plant out there. The tiny pests suck the life
out of your growing Swiss chard plants. Spray them off of your plants with a
strong blast of water and then apply neem oil to keep them from returning. Cutworms Cutworms are
the caterpillars of a variety of night-flying moths. They nibble through the
base of plant stems. They can kill an entire row of growing Swiss chard plants
in one night. Stop them by
putting cardboard collars around your chard plants, keeping your garden weeded
to keep them from having a place to hide, and hand-pick the caterpillars at
night. Wireworms Wireworms are
the larvae of the click beetle. They live underground and nibble on the roots
of plants. They’re difficult to kill. Use repeated applications of
pyrethrin-based sprays to control them and introduce beneficial insects into
your garden. You can also place traps in your soil. Nematodes Nematodes are
microscopic roundworms that cause galls on the roots of chard. They can cause
loss of vigor and reduced growth in plants. Purchase certified nematode-free
plants and sanitize your tools between use. Also be sure to rotate your crops,
meaning you shouldn’t plant brassicas in the same place for several years in a
row. If you get them, solarize your soil to kill them off. Snails
and Slugs Regardless of
the variety of slug and snail in your area, they’ll love your Swiss chard. They
reproduce rapidly and will devour your lovely greens. I find the best
way to get rid of them is two-fold. Use a child and pet-friendly snail pellet.
There are some available that are waterproof, so you don’t have to replace them
as often. Second, go out
at night and hand-pick them off plants. Either squash them or do what I do and
feed them to your chickens. If you’re going to do this, don’t poison the snails
with pellets. Leaf
Miner The damage
caused by leaf miners shows up as tracks through your leafy greens. The larvae
of this small fly burrow into the interior of the leaf. It’s unsightly, and no
one wants to eat Swiss chard that looks like this. I’ve found this
to be my number one issue with chard. Use either a general pesticide or my
preference, regular spraying of neem oil. Flea
Beetle These little
insects will leave holes in the leaves, often called shot holes. The flea
beetle is usually too small to do much damage, but they can spread diseases
between plants. I prefer to use
neem oil over insecticide for flea beetles, but you need to apply the neem oil
early in the season to do much good. Circospora
Leafspot This is a
fungal disease that affects most plants and forms unsightly spots on the leafy
part of the Swiss chard. I’ve seen it get so bad to the point where the leaf
appears to have a grey mould on the surface. Yield from the plant and quality
are both affected. Eventually, the plant infects those around it. There are
several fungicides available for controlling leafspot, but I usually remove the
whole plant and throw in the garbage, not the compost heap. Practice good soil
hygiene and remove any debris and dead vegetation from your garden. Downy
Mildew Humidity and
excessive moisture are the most common cause of this disease. Avoid watering
the leaves and ensure you have plenty of space between the plants. Pick leaves
regularly to thin out the individual plants. If you see the
telltale sign of a grey powdery mark forming on the leaves, remove the affected
parts and throw in the garbage. Then spray plants with a fungicide spray that
contains copper. Bacterial
Soft Rot Bacterial soft
rot is one of the most devastating diseases out there for commercial growers.
Once you have it, you can’t cure it, and it can destroy your plants. Controlling
water is your best option. Don’t overwater plants, apply water to the roots,
keep plenty of space between plants, and water in the morning so plants can dry
by the evening. Sterilize tools
between use, keep your garden beds free of weeds and toss any infected plants
that you find. Curly
Tops Curly tops is a
virus spread by leafhoppers. Your best bet to avoiding this disease is to
control pests using neem oil or pesticides. Mosaic
Virus Mosaic virus
shows up as spots on plants, wrinkled leaves, yellowing veins, and stunted
growth. Treat plants with neem oil, keep garden beds weeded, sterilize tools
between use, and destroy any infected plants. Text from The
Vegetable & Herb Expert D.D.G. Hessayon MORE INFOS and the links I will send you when you
write me on PM: Be more successful with AGRO-ECONOMY COURSE LEVEL 4: Reach 4 times more yields with
irrigation and little machines. We help you as consultant in AGRO ECONOMY. For
15% commission. LEVEL 3:FOODFOREST COURSE,
150 lessons Agroforestry, Syntropic, LEVEL 2:PERMACULTURECOURSE 140 lessons THE
STANDARD. LEVEL 1: ORGANICFARMINGCOURSE, in fb 700 lessons the BASICS of
Organic Farming. Join in on .. https:// www.facebook.com/FAIREC-Atlas-Developement-SARL-654505228040366/ In progress
all lessons with crops, herbs, and fruit in English and Swahili in my
blog. LEVEL 0:Save daily 50 % water,
energy, and fertilizer with us. See 70 lessons best SUBSURFACEDRIP
IRRIGATION for crops and trees. Use our best T-Tape. See INDIAN best quality 2-Wheel Tractors and weeders in 420 and 600 mm
width. Find my lessons in the following hashtags: #organicfarmer #organic #organicfarmingpractices
#organicfarming#organicfarm#foodforest #syntropic #agroecology#syntropicfarming#agroeconomy #introductiontopermaculture#permacultureprinciples#creativethinking#permaculturehomesteading#regenerativefuture#Ubuntu#United4Land KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI 6 SWISS CHARDS - 6.108 - SHIDA Vidukari Inaonekana kama aphids hushambulia karibu kila mmea
huko nje. Wadudu wadogo hufyonza maisha ya mimea yako inayokua ya chard ya
Uswizi. Nyunyiza mimea yako kwa mlipuko mkali wa maji kisha upake mafuta ya
mwarobaini ili isirudi tena. Minyoo Cutworms ni viwavi wa aina mbalimbali za nondo
wanaoruka usiku. Wanatafuna chini ya shina la mmea. Wanaweza kuua safu nzima ya
kupanda mimea ya chard ya Uswizi kwa usiku mmoja. Wazuie kwa kuweka mikunjo ya kadibodi kuzunguka
mimea yako ya chard, kuweka bustani yako palizi ili kuwazuia kuwa na mahali pa
kujificha, na wachukue viwavi kwa mkono usiku. Wireworms Wireworms ni mabuu ya beetle click. Wanaishi chini ya
ardhi na kunyonya mizizi ya mimea. Wao ni vigumu kuua. Tumia matumizi ya mara
kwa mara ya dawa za kunyunyuzia zenye pyrethrin ili kuzidhibiti na kuanzisha
wadudu wenye manufaa kwenye bustani yako. Unaweza pia kuweka mitego kwenye
udongo wako. Nematodes Nematodi ni minyoo wadogo wadogo ambao husababisha
nyongo kwenye mizizi ya chard. Wanaweza kusababisha kupoteza nguvu na kupunguza
ukuaji wa mimea. Nunua mimea iliyoidhinishwa isiyo na nematode na usafishe zana
zako kati ya matumizi. Pia hakikisha kuwa umezungusha mazao yako, kumaanisha
kwamba hupaswi kupanda brassicas mahali pamoja kwa miaka kadhaa mfululizo.
Ukizipata, weka udongo wako kwa jua ili kuwaua. Konokono na Slugs Bila kujali aina mbalimbali za koa na konokono katika
eneo lako, watapenda chard yako ya Uswizi. Wanazaa
haraka na watakula mboga zako za kupendeza. Ninaona njia bora ya kuwaondoa ni mara mbili. Tumia
pellet ya konokono inayopendeza kwa mtoto na pet. Kuna zingine zinazopatikana
ambazo hazina maji, kwa hivyo sio lazima kuzibadilisha mara nyingi. Pili, nenda nje usiku na uchukue kwa mikono kutoka
kwa mimea. Ama uwapige au fanya ninachofanya na uwalishe kuku wako. Ikiwa
utafanya hivyo, usiwe na sumu ya konokono na pellets. Mchimbaji wa majani Uharibifu unaosababishwa na wachimbaji wa majani
huonekana kama nyimbo kupitia mboga zako za majani. Mabuu ya nzi huyu mdogo
huchimba ndani ya jani. Haipendezi, na hakuna mtu anayetaka kula chard ya
Uswizi inayoonekana kama hii. Nimeona hili kuwa suala langu la kwanza na chard.
Tumia dawa ya kuulia wadudu au upendeleo wangu, kunyunyizia mafuta ya
mwarobaini mara kwa mara. Flea Beetle Wadudu hawa wadogo wataacha mashimo kwenye majani,
mara nyingi huitwa mashimo ya risasi. Mende kwa kawaida ni mdogo sana kufanya
uharibifu mkubwa, lakini wanaweza kueneza magonjwa kati ya mimea. Napendelea kutumia mafuta ya mwarobaini kuliko dawa
ya kuua wadudu, lakini unahitaji kupaka mafuta ya mwarobaini mapema msimu huu
ili kufanya mengi mazuri. Circospora Leafspot Huu ni ugonjwa wa fangasi ambao huathiri mimea mingi
na kutengeneza madoa yasiyopendeza kwenye sehemu ya majani ya chard ya Uswisi.
Nimeiona ikizidi kuwa mbaya hadi pale jani linaonekana kuwa na ukungu wa kijivu
juu ya uso. Mavuno kutoka kwa mmea na ubora wote huathiriwa. Hatimaye, mmea
huambukiza wale walio karibu nayo. Kuna dawa nyingi za kuua ukungu zinazopatikana kwa
ajili ya kudhibiti sehemu ya majani, lakini mimi huondoa mmea mzima na kutupa
kwenye takataka, sio lundo la mboji. Zingatia usafi wa udongo na uondoe uchafu
wowote na mimea iliyokufa kwenye bustani yako. Ugonjwa wa Downy Unyevu na unyevu kupita kiasi ndio sababu ya kawaida
ya ugonjwa huu. Epuka kumwagilia majani na hakikisha kuwa kuna nafasi nyingi
kati ya mimea. Chukua majani mara kwa mara ili kupunguza mmea mmoja mmoja. Ukiona ishara ya alama ya unga ya kijivu ikitokea
kwenye majani, ondoa sehemu zilizoathirika na utupe kwenye takataka. Kisha
nyunyiza mimea na dawa ya kuua uyoga ambayo ina shaba. Kuoza kwa Bakteria Laini Uozo laini wa bakteria ni moja ya magonjwa hatari
zaidi kwa wakulima wa biashara. Mara tu unapoipata, huwezi kuiponya, na inaweza
kuharibu mimea yako. Kudhibiti maji ni chaguo lako bora. Usimwagilie
mimea kupita kiasi, weka maji kwenye mizizi, weka nafasi nyingi kati ya mimea,
na maji asubuhi ili mimea iweze kukauka jioni. Safisha zana kati ya matumizi, weka vitanda vyako
vya bustani bila magugu na tupa mimea yoyote iliyoambukizwa ambayo utapata. Vilele vya Curly Curly tops ni virusi vinavyoenezwa na leafhoppers.
Dau lako bora la kuepuka ugonjwa huu ni kudhibiti wadudu kwa kutumia mafuta ya
mwarobaini au dawa za kuua wadudu. Virusi vya Musa Virusi vya Musa huonekana kama madoa kwenye mimea,
majani yaliyokunjamana, mishipa ya manjano, na ukuaji kudumaa. Tibu mimea kwa
mafuta ya mwarobaini, weka vitanda vya bustani vilivyopaliliwa, safisha zana
kati ya matumizi, na uharibu mimea yoyote iliyoambukizwa.
Swedes and turnip are from the brassica family,
also root fruit. The introduction of disease resistant varieties has this
vegetable even easier to grow. All you have to do is to sprinkle some seeds in
late spring or summer, thin a view week later and then lift the large globular
roots as you need them. Few other crops are quite so straightforward. Swedes
are closely related to turnips (Swedish Turnip) but the flesh is generally
yellow and the flavour both milder and sweeter. There are other differences – the plants are
hardier, the yields are greater, and the growing period is longer. VARIETIES: MARIAN: It has all the plus points - high yields, good flavour
and texture with the bonus of resistance to club root and mildew. BEST OF ALL: You will find this purple-skinned yellow-fleshed
variety in many catalogues Very hardy and reliable. LIZZY: This resent introduction is claimed to have a better
flavour than this other varieties. Slow to run to seed. RUBY: Like Lizzy, this new swede has been bred for
extra sweetness. More resistant than most to powdery mildew. WESTERN PERFECTION: The reputation of this variety is based on its
quick -growing nature. The purple-topped roots have yellow flash. ACME: Another purple-topped variety which is quick
growing like western Perfection. Text from The
Vegetable & Herb Expert D.D.G. Hessayon KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI 6 SWEDE – 6.100 - UKWELI WA MIMEA
na AINA MBALIMBALI Swedes na turnip ni kutoka kwa
familia ya brassica, pia matunda ya mizizi. Kuanzishwa kwa aina zinazostahimili
magonjwa kuna mboga hii hata rahisi kukuza. Unachohitajika kufanya ni
kunyunyiza mbegu mwishoni mwa majira ya kuchipua au kiangazi, punguza mwonekano
wiki moja baadaye na kisha uinulie mizizi mikubwa ya globula kadri
unavyohitaji. Mazao mengine machache ni ya moja kwa moja. Wasweden wana
uhusiano wa karibu sana na turnip (Zabibu ya Uswidi) lakini nyama kwa ujumla ni
ya manjano na ladha yake ni laini na tamu zaidi. Kuna tofauti nyingine - mimea ni
ngumu zaidi, mavuno ni makubwa, na kipindi cha kukua ni cha muda mrefu. AINA MBALIMBALI: MARIAN: Ina pointi zote muhimu - mavuno ya
juu, ladha nzuri na texture na ziada ya upinzani dhidi ya mizizi ya klabu na
koga. BORA KULIKO YOTE: Utapata aina hii ya rangi ya
zambarau-njano katika katalogi nyingi Imara sana na ya kuaminika. LIZZY: Utangulizi huu wa hasira unadaiwa
kuwa na ladha bora kuliko aina hii nyingine. Polepole kukimbia kwa mbegu. RUBY: Kama Lizzy, mswidi huyu mpya
amekuzwa kwa utamu zaidi. Inastahimili zaidi kuliko nyingi kwa ukungu wa unga. UKAMILIFU WA MAGHARIBI: Sifa ya aina hii inategemea asili
yake ya kukua haraka. Mizizi yenye rangi ya zambarau ina flashi ya manjano. ACME: Aina nyingine ya rangi ya zambarau
ambayo inakua haraka kama Ukamilifu wa magharibi.
ORGANICFARMINGCOURSE AGRO-ECONOMY 6 SWEDE –6.101 - GROWING and SOIL
Thin out the crop as
soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle. Do this in stages until the
plants are 9 in. apart. Keep the soil hoed
and remember to water in dry weather – failure to do so will result in smaller
and woodier roots. Rain following a dry spell cause roots to split. Spray with MORGANIC
SEAWEAD fertilizer at the first signs of flea beetle’s damage. SOIL
FACTS Swedes are brassicas
and like other members of the family need a firm, non-acid soil which has reasonable
drainage. Pick a sunny spot and dig
in autumn, Lime if necessary. In spring apply Grow more fertilizer. Prepare the
seedbed a week later. Apply a nematode-based insecticide if cabbage root fly is
known to be a problem. LOOKING
AFTER THE CROP. ·Thin out the crop as soon as
the seedlings are large enough to handle. Do this in stages until the plants ae
9in. apart. ·Keep the soil hoed and
remember to water in dry weather – failure to do so will result in smaller and
woodier roots. Rain following a dry spell can caught roots to split. ·Spray with pyrethrins at the
first signs of flee beetle damage. Text from The
Vegetable & Herb Expert D.D.G. Hessayon MORE INFOS and the links I will send you when you
write me on PM: Be more successful with AGRO-ECONOMY COURSE LEVEL 4: Reach 4 times more yields with
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15% commission. LEVEL 3:FOODFOREST COURSE,
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Organic Farming. Join in on .. https:// www.facebook.com/FAIREC-Atlas-Developement-SARL-654505228040366/ In progress
all lessons with crops, herbs, and fruit in English and Swahili in my
blog. LEVEL 0:Save daily 50 % water,
energy, and fertilizer with us. See 70 lessons best SUBSURFACEDRIP
IRRIGATION for crops and trees. Use our best T-Tape. See INDIAN best quality 2-Wheel Tractors and weeders in 420 and 600 mm
width. Find my lessons in the following hashtags: #organicfarmer #organic #organicfarmingpractices
#organicfarming#organicfarm#foodforest #syntropic #agroecology#syntropicfarming#agroeconomy #introductiontopermaculture#permacultureprinciples#creativethinking#permaculturehomesteading#regenerativefuture#Ubuntu#United4Land KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI 6 SWEDE - 6.101 - KUKUA na UDONGO Punguza mazao mara tu miche
inapokuwa kubwa vya kutosha kuhimili. Fanya hivi kwa hatua hadi mimea iwe 9 in. Weka udongo uliopandwa na kumbuka
kumwagilia katika hali ya hewa kavu - kutofanya hivyo kutasababisha mizizi
ndogo na ngumu zaidi. Mvua kufuatia kipindi cha kiangazi husababisha mizizi
kugawanyika. Nyunyiza na mbolea ya MORGANIC
SEAWEAD katika dalili za kwanza za uharibifu wa mende. MAMBO YA UDONGO Wasweden ni brassicas na kama
wanafamilia wengine wanahitaji udongo thabiti, usio na asidi ambao una mifereji
ya maji ya kuridhisha. Chagua mahali pa jua na kuchimba
katika vuli, Lime ikiwa ni lazima. Katika spring kuomba Kukua mbolea zaidi.
Tayarisha kitalu wiki moja baadaye. Weka dawa ya kuua wadudu wa nematode ikiwa
nzi wa mizizi ya kabichi inajulikana kuwa tatizo. KUANGALIA MAZAO. • Nyunyiza mazao mara tu miche
inapokuwa na uwezo wa kuhimili. Fanya hivi kwa hatua hadi mimea inchi 9. mbali. • Weka udongo ukiwa umelimwa na
kumbuka kumwagilia maji katika hali ya hewa kavu – kutofanya hivyo
kutasababisha mizizi midogo na yenye miti midogo. Mvua inayofuata kipindi cha
ukame inaweza kushika mizizi na kugawanyika. • Nyunyiza na pyrethrin katika
dalili za kwanza za uharibifu wa mende.
