7 0 COMPOST – 7.10 - STEPS FOR USING GREEN MANURES.

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.10 - STEPS FOR USING GREEN MANURES.

 

HOW TO USE GREEN MANURES

     a) Sowing the green manure

•     If grown within a crop rotation, the time of sowing must be chosen such that the green manure can be cut down and worked into the soil before the next crop is sown.

•     Green manures need water for germination and growth.

•     The ideal seed density must be tested for each individual situation. It depends on the species chosen.

•     In general, no additional fertilization is necessary. If legumes are grown in a field for the first time, inoculation of the seeds with the specific rhizobia may be necessary to profit from nitrogen fixation of the legume.

b) Working the green manure into the soil

 

•     Timing: The time gap between digging in the green manure and planting the next crop should not be longer than 2 to 3 weeks, to prevent nutrient losses from the decomposing green manure.

•     Crushing: Green manures are worked in most easily when the plants are still young and fresh. If the green manure plants are tall or contain bulky and hard plant parts, it is preferable to chop the plants into pieces to allow easier decomposition. The older the plants, the longer decomposition will take. The best time to dig in green manure plants is just before flowering.

•     Depth of incorporation: Green manures should not be ploughed deeply into the soil. Instead they should only be worked into the surface soil (in heavy soils only 5 to 15 cm deep, in light soils 10 to maximum 20 cm deep). In warm and humid climates, the material can also be left on the soil surface as a mulch layer.

TEXT in the picture:

·         1. Saw the green manure.

·         Timing? Which species to grow?

·         Avoid competition to the main crops

·         Ensure good growing conditions

·         2. Wait until maximum biomass is developed

·         Cut before flowering

·         3. Cut and incorporate the plant material in the soil.

·         Crush the material into pieces.

·         Incorporate it superficially.

·         4. Saw or plant a crop with a high nutrient demand

·         Saw or plant the next crop two weeks to avoid nutrient losses.

 

 

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOLEA – 7.10 - HATUA ZA KUTUMIA MBOLEA ZA KIJANI.

 

JINSI YA KUTUMIA MBOLE ZA KIJANI

a) Kupanda mbolea ya kijani

• Ikipandwa katika mzunguko wa mazao, wakati wa kupanda lazima uchaguliwe ili mbolea ya kijani iweze kukatwa na kutiwa udongoni kabla ya zao linalofuata kupandwa.

• Mbolea za kijani zinahitaji maji kwa ajili ya kuota na kukua.

• Msongamano bora wa mbegu lazima ujaribiwe kwa kila hali ya mtu binafsi. Inategemea aina zilizochaguliwa.

• Kwa ujumla, hakuna mbolea ya ziada inahitajika. Iwapo kunde hupandwa shambani kwa mara ya kwanza, kuchanjwa kwa mbegu na rhizobia maalum kunaweza kuhitajika ili kufaidika na uwekaji wa nitrojeni kwenye mikunde.

b) Kuweka mbolea ya kijani kwenye udongo

 

• Muda: Pengo la muda kati ya kuchimba kwenye mbolea ya kijani na kupanda zao linalofuata lisizidi wiki 2 hadi 3 ili kuzuia upotevu wa virutubisho kutokana na mbolea ya kijani kibichi kuoza.

• Kusagwa: Mbolea za kijani hutumiwa kwa urahisi wakati mimea ingali michanga na mbichi. Ikiwa mimea ya samadi ya kijani ni mirefu au ina sehemu kubwa na ngumu za mimea, ni vyema kukata mimea vipande vipande ili kuruhusu kuoza kwa urahisi. Mimea ya zamani, mtengano wa muda mrefu utachukua. Wakati mzuri wa kuchimba kwenye mimea ya mbolea ya kijani ni kabla ya maua.

• Kina cha ujumuishaji: Mbolea za kijani zisipamwe kwa kina kwenye udongo. Badala yake zinapaswa kufanyiwa kazi kwenye udongo wa juu (katika udongo mzito tu wa sentimita 5 hadi 15 tu, kwenye udongo mwepesi wa 10 hadi 20 cm juu). Katika hali ya hewa ya joto na unyevunyevu, nyenzo pia zinaweza kuachwa kwenye uso wa udongo kama safu ya matandazo.

TEXT kwenye picha:

• 1. Aliona mbolea ya kijani.

• Muda? Ni aina gani za kukua?

• Epuka ushindani wa mazao makuu

• Hakikisha hali nzuri ya kukua

• 2. Subiri hadi kiwango cha juu cha majani kitengenezwe

• Kata kabla ya kutoa maua

• 3. Kata na ujumuishe nyenzo za mmea kwenye udongo.

• Ponda nyenzo vipande vipande.

• Ijumuishe kijuujuu.

• 4. Soma au panda mazao yenye mahitaji makubwa ya virutubishi

• Sama au panda mazao kwa wiki mbili ili kuepuka upotevu wa virutubisho.

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     ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) 

KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI - WhatsApp +254 769 396 680

don.ronaldo@gmx.de

Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

 

7 0 COMPOST – 7.11 - CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ''IDEAL'' GREEN MANURE PLANT

 

 

 ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.11 - CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ''IDEAL'' GREEN MANURE PLANT

 

How to choose the right species?

There is a large variety of plants, especially legumes that can be used as green manure crops. It is important that appropriate species are chosen. Most importantly they should be adapted to the local growing conditions, especially rainfall and soil, fit into the crop rotation and not pose a risk of transmitting diseases and pests to other crops.

TEXT in the picture:

·         It is easy to cultivate.

·         It produces a lot of biomasses in short time

·         It effectively suppresses weeds.

·         It develops deep roots.

·         It takes up soil minerals in large quantities.

·         It fixes nitrogen from the air.

·         It is not sensitive to pest and dis 

·         

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOLEA – 7.11 - TABIA ZA MIMEA YA ''BORA'' YA MADONGO YA KIJANI

Jinsi ya kuchagua aina sahihi?

Kuna aina kubwa ya mimea, hasa mikunde ambayo inaweza kutumika kama mazao ya mbolea ya kijani. Ni muhimu kuchagua aina zinazofaa. Muhimu zaidi zinapaswa kuendana na hali ya ukuaji wa eneo hilo, haswa mvua na udongo, zinafaa katika mzunguko wa mazao na zisiwe na hatari ya kusambaza magonjwa na wadudu kwa mazao mengine.

 

TEXT kwenye picha:

• Ni rahisi kulima

• Hutoa majani mengi kwa muda mfupi

• Inakandamiza magugu kwa ufanisi

• Hukuza mizizi mirefu

• Inachukua madini ya udongo kwa wingi

• Hutengeneza nitrojeni kutoka hewani

• Sio nyeti kwa wadudu na magonjwa

• Inafanyiwa kazi kwa urahisi ndani yake haishindani na zao kuu kwa ushirikianoeases

It is easily worked in it does not compete with the main crop in association.

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    ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L 

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de

KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI - WhatsApp +254 769 396 680

Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

 

 

7 0 COMPOST – 7.12 – ANIMAL MANURE

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.12 – ANIMAL MANURE

 

Depending on whether animals are kept in stables or not (part or full time), farmyard manure consists of animal excreta and bedding material (usually straw or grass). Farmyard manure is extremely valuable organic manure.

Some characteristics and effects of farmyard manure: It contains large amounts of nutrients:

Only part of the nitrogen content of manure is directly available to plants, while the remaining part is released as the manure decomposes. The nitrogen in animal urine is available in the short-term.

When dung and urine are mixed, they form a well-balanced source of nutrients for plants. The availability of phosphorus and potassium from farmyard manure is like that from chemical fertilizers. Chicken manure is rich in phosphorus. However, it is important to be aware of the origin of the manure, as chicken manure from conventional farms is contaminated by heavy metals.

Organic manures contribute to the build-up of soil organic matter and thus improve soil fertility.

 

 

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOLEA – 7.12 – MADHI YA WANYAMA

 

Kutegemea kama wanyama wanatunzwa kwenye mazizi au la (sehemu au muda wote), samadi ya shambani huwa na kinyesi cha wanyama na nyenzo za matandiko (kawaida majani au nyasi). Mbolea ya shamba ni mbolea ya kikaboni yenye thamani kubwa sana.

Baadhi ya sifa na athari za samadi ya shambani: Ina kiasi kikubwa cha virutubisho:

Sehemu tu ya maudhui ya nitrojeni ya mbolea hupatikana moja kwa moja kwa mimea, wakati sehemu iliyobaki hutolewa wakati mbolea inaharibika. Nitrojeni katika mkojo wa wanyama inapatikana kwa muda mfupi.

Wakati kinyesi na mkojo vinachanganywa, huunda chanzo cha usawa cha virutubisho kwa mimea. Upatikanaji wa fosforasi na potasiamu kutoka kwa samadi ya shamba ni kama hiyo kutoka kwa mbolea za kemikali. Mbolea ya kuku ina fosforasi nyingi. Hata hivyo, ni muhimu kufahamu asili ya samadi, kwani samadi ya kuku kutoka kwenye mashamba ya kawaida huchafuliwa na metali nzito.

Mbolea za kikaboni huchangia katika mrundikano wa mabaki ya viumbe hai kwenye udongo na hivyo kuboresha rutuba ya udongo.

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Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de

KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680

Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.

7 0 COMPOST – 7.13 - HOW TO STORE FARMYARD MANURE

 

ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY

7 0 COMPOST – 7.13 - HOW TO STORE FARMYARD MANURE 

 

Farmyard manure should ideally be collected and stored for a while to obtain a manure of high quality. The best result is achieved if the farmyard manure is composted. Manure stored under anaerobic conditions (e.g. in waterlogged pits) is of inferior quality. 

Collection of farmyard manure is easiest if the animals are kept in stables. For storage, the manure should be mixed with dry plant material (straw, grass, crop residues, leaves etc.) to absorb the liquid. Straw that has been cut or mashed by spreading it out on a roadside can absorb more water than long straw. 

Usually, the manure is stored next to the stable, either in heaps or in pits. It can also be stored within the stable as bedding, provided it is covered with fresh bedding material. In any case, the farmyard manure should be protected from sun, wind and rain. Water logging, as well as drying out should be avoided, to avoid nutrient losses. The storage site should be impermeable and have a slight slope. Ideally, a trench collects the liquid from the manure heap and the urine from the stable. A dam around the heap prevents uncontrolled in- and outflow of urine and water. 

Storing manure in pits is particularly suitable for dry areas and dry seasons. Storage in pits reduces the risk of drying out and the need to water the pile. However, there is greater risk of waterlogging and more effort is required as the pit needs to be dug out. For this method, a 90 cm (3 ft) to 150 cm ( 5 ft) deep pit is dug with a slight slope at the bottom. The bottom is compressed and then first covered with straw. Until 150 cm high. Means in the sandwich system store up to 5 ft. 

The pit is filled with layers about 30 cm (1 ft) thick and each layer compressed and covered with 5 cm (2.5 inch) of manure and then a layer of 5 cm ( 2,5 inch )  earth. 

The pit is filled up until it stands about 30 cm above ground and then covered with 10 cm of soil. 

Humidity in the manure heap must be controlled. To avoid nutrient losses, it should neither be too wet nor too dry. Some indicators to monitor the humidity of the manure are.

 

•       If white fungus appears (threads and white spots), the manure is too dry and should be dampened with water or urine. 

•       A yellow-green colour and/or bad smell are signs that the manure is too wet and not sufficiently aerated. 

•       If the manure shows a brown to black colour throughout the heap, the conditions are ideal. 

 

 

TEXT in the picture:

Appropriated treatment of farmland manure. 

 

•      Protect from sun and rain

•      Protect from wind

•      Mix with straw

•      Avoid water logging

•      Build a dam to avoid in- and outflow

•      Compress if dry • Insure solid underground 

•      Water if necessary. 

 

KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI

7 0 MBOLEA – 7.13 - NAMNA YA KUHIFADHI MADHI YA SHAMBA

 

Mbolea ya shambani inapaswa kukusanywa na kuhifadhiwa kwa muda ili kupata samadi ya ubora wa juu. Matokeo bora hupatikana ikiwa samadi ya shamba itawekwa mboji. Mbolea iliyohifadhiwa chini ya hali ya anaerobic (k.m. kwenye mashimo yaliyojaa maji) ni ya ubora duni.

Ukusanyaji wa samadi ya shambani ni rahisi zaidi ikiwa wanyama watawekwa kwenye mazizi. Kwa kuhifadhi, mbolea inapaswa kuchanganywa na nyenzo kavu ya mimea (majani, nyasi, mabaki ya mazao, majani nk) ili kunyonya kioevu. Majani ambayo yamekatwa au kupondwa kwa kutandazwa kando ya barabara yanaweza kunyonya maji mengi kuliko majani marefu.

Kwa kawaida, samadi huhifadhiwa karibu na zizi, ama kwenye chungu au kwenye mashimo. Inaweza pia kuhifadhiwa ndani ya zizi kama matandiko, mradi imefunikwa na nyenzo mpya ya matandiko. Kwa hali yoyote, mbolea ya shamba inapaswa kulindwa kutokana na jua, upepo na mvua. Kukata maji, pamoja na kukausha nje kunapaswa kuepukwa, ili kuepuka hasara za virutubisho. Tovuti ya kuhifadhi inapaswa kuwa isiyoweza kupenyeza na kuwa na mteremko mdogo. Kimsingi, mtaro hukusanya kioevu kutoka kwenye lundo la samadi na mkojo kutoka kwenye zizi. Bwawa kuzunguka lundo huzuia mtiririko usiodhibitiwa wa mkojo na maji.

Kuhifadhi samadi kwenye mashimo kunafaa hasa kwa maeneo kavu na misimu ya kiangazi. Uhifadhi kwenye mashimo hupunguza hatari ya kukauka na hitaji la kumwagilia rundo. Hata hivyo, kuna hatari kubwa ya kujaa maji na juhudi zaidi zinahitajika kwani shimo linahitaji kuchimbwa. Kwa njia hii, shimo lenye kina cha sentimita 90 (futi 3) hadi 150 cm huchimbwa na mteremko mdogo chini. Chini ni compressed na kisha kwanza kufunikwa na majani. Hadi urefu wa 150 cm. Njia katika mfumo wa sandwich huhifadhi hadi futi 5.

Shimo limejaa matabaka yenye unene wa sm 30 (futi 1) na kila safu imebanwa na kufunikwa na sm 5 (inchi 2.5) ya samadi na kisha safu ya sm 5 ( 2,5 inch ) ardhi.

Shimo linajazwa hadi lisimame karibu sm 30 juu ya ardhi na kisha kufunikwa na sm 10 za udongo.

Unyevu kwenye lundo la samadi lazima udhibitiwe. Ili kuzuia upotezaji wa virutubishi, haipaswi kuwa mvua sana au kavu sana. Baadhi ya viashiria vya kufuatilia unyevunyevu wa samadi ni.

 

• Iwapo fangasi nyeupe itaonekana (nyuzi na madoa meupe), samadi ni kavu sana na inapaswa kunyunyishwa kwa maji au mkojo.

• Rangi ya manjano-kijani na/au harufu mbaya ni ishara kwamba samadi ni mvua sana na haina hewa ya kutosha.

• Iwapo samadi itaonyesha rangi ya kahawia hadi nyeusi katika lundo lote, hali ni nzuri.

 

TEXT kwenye picha:

Matibabu sahihi ya samadi ya shamba.

 

• Kinga dhidi ya jua na mvua

• Kinga dhidi ya upepo

• Changanya na majani

• Epuka ukataji wa maji

• Jenga bwawa ili kuepuka kuingia na kutoka nje

• Shindana ikiwa kavu

• Hakikisha chini ya ardhi imara

• Maji ikiwa ni lazima.

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         ATLAS DEVELOPMENT S.A.R.L   

Ronald Hauck CEO (Don Ronaldo) don.ronaldo@gmx.de

KENYA KISUMU MILIMANI WhatsApp +254 769 396 680

Consultant for business, organic farming, and general buildings.